Looks like you're getting a clean start,Gator..I thought maybe it had a torque converter/trans drive,not a clutch..anyway glad to hear you are paying attention to the electrics,most people won't and then struggle and wonder why the new engine they just rebuilt gives them problems..wiring and GOOD CONNECTIONS is very important. Sure wouldn't hurt to upgrade some of the wire as well,most manufacturers will economize in a lot of places,like alternator to battery wire,neutral safety switch wires and battery leads themselves..if it's a diesel I always go with at LEAST a #2 welding lead for the battery + and frame grounds as well,no substitute for real copper..nothing like a good frame ground as well, grind off a spot and establish a good metal land,maybe drill and tap an additional frame ground point..just my 10c..I have an old Cat loader which has all the wiring enclosed in what looks like flexible electrical conduit..plastic coated metal flex..really keeps the mice and rats,etc from eating the plastic wiring..The black plastic flex split loom works pretty good too..tends to melt with high temps but I'm sure you are aware of that as well in your harness routing..Nice to see the photos keep up the good work
Lookin good Gator! --- Bunk--the 20-p is clutch drive and they had the converter drive model as well --it goes as model 20. should be a great little dozer . One of the road jobs I hauled to when I drove for Melton's had a 20 that they used in field entrances to level gravel and the operator was a whizz on it. --- little 20 did amazing work in small areas plus easy to move.`---plenty of power to work the ditch banks and level gravel in field entrances. Nice light dozer to do serious work with!
"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
This is beyond my comfort zone, but it's give it a shot of pay someone else and I can screw it up 10 times and still not have the cost of someone else doing it.
This afternoon I tore into the engine. Got it down to the block. I had to spent an hour cleaning from my first efforts and organizing all the stuff I had already taken off before. I bagged the bolts from each individual section and labeled them. I also sorted the parts in order on a table as I took them off. I ran out of room at the end, but I think I can make sense enough of it to get it back together. Looking at it I think the engine filled with rain water and that rusted the cylinders enough to ruin the rings when it was turned over.
Got lots of pics to post
You can see the rust on these gears where they were immersed in water
It looks bad but I scrapped the rust off and I think the gears will be OK. I'm going to inspect them more before I decide.
This is not good.....luckily I chatted with a guy that I hope joins on here, he confirmed what I needed to order and I found a cam shaft included in a rebuild kit.
kinda looks like you might be into a new cam, clean the bore bottoms up with some crocus cloth and oil..install new oil pump, some new piston rings,valve job and reassemble. At that point I think a new water pump while you have it out might be a good idea..I cant tell from the photo, how do the crank journals look?
>pay particular attention to total fuel system cleanliness upon getting it all back together,flush,flush and flush again....a small amount of dirt into that injection pump could mean a bill much larger than the whole rebuild in itself..FWIW
We had a Vulcan Storm Cleaner at college. It got stuff so clean that the stuff we cleaned would flash rust if we didn't spray the stuff down with WD-40. One of those would take care of that surface rust. You'd still need to clean out the oil passages with a wire brush. Would take the rust off of those timing gears too. It would be worth it to me $$$
the gears will clean up good----cam--I would use a new one to be safe---this one will clean up, BUT how many hours does it have on it?--who knows, so new one there to be safe! new oil pump a must and you could go new water pump since you are there. Mic. the crank and also the piston bores to see IF need machine shop visit or not. ----could get lucky on them just never know. Ya that motor had rain water sitting in it big time! ---sad how some guys treat their equipment! I bought several tractors with same deal---water in pistons and motors stuck! Your making progress for sure! ---stay with it!!
"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
Gator, go buy a half dozen stainless steel scrubbing pads for pots and pans, use them with a mixture of 75/25 ATF/Diesel fuel to remove the rust from the inside of the block. They do not break down into grit like 3M scrub pads do. I rebuilt a little two cylinder Japanese diesel that had rust inside the block, it took three changes of fluid in my parts washer to get all the grit from the 3M pads out of the engine block. Looks like you are making good progress. Good luck. Dan.
Tools are to men as shoes are to women, you can never have too many!
I looked at the block pretty good and it didn't look like it had sleeves in it. A Komatsu field Tech contacted me Saturdat from one of my FB posts and sent me a engine manual. The engine doesn't come sleeved, they are only to be sleeved after it can't be bored further. I am going to check with a engine shop as soon as I get a chance. I am hoping that they can just clean up the bores and replace the pistons with standard size. There is also an option to buy oversized pistons if I have to get it bored. Last option would be to machine it for the sleeves.
The manual he gave me has good drawings on the boring procedure is needed.
All that said I am not a diesel mechanic by any means. I may end up having to at least get the short block build by someone that knows what they are doing. At the end of the day I want it to run whoever fixes it. On the other hand I like to learn as I go so who knows. I think the first step is to get a second opinion on the cylinder bore so I can get the right parts on order.
All the parts will end up coming from China so whenever the parts get ordered it will take awhile to get them here.
Gator you'd be surprised at just how fast freight is these days, especially with the holiday season and all the online shopping volume has caused carriers to add staff and flights for cargo..I ship gensets around the world and have seen the speed of freight increase greatly the last month..Isuzu rebuild kits(pistons,rings,gaskets and bearings)from the Philippines comes within a week and a half..most of the time it's hung up in customs..anyway you might be able to flex hone the bores if they aren't too bad..the end word will be the bore mike,get a spec sheet and see what the sheet says on bore diameter vs.the mike readings at three spots in the bore.Even if she's loose it'l still run but for how long you don't know so if its a keeper machine better just pay the man and do it right while it's apart and in front of you. Your injection pump makes a huge difference on starting performance and power..I've never done a Komatsu engine or inj pump, only the old stanadynes..bag that pump asap and keep it clean during the process,you have heard me preach that before..best of luck and keep us posted
I figure I should give a update. The parts came in a reasonable time from China. They look like good quality also. The machine shop wanted to have the piston in hand before starting work on the engine. That way they could verify the bore that they needed. They also had about 80% of the help out for several weeks due to contact tracing.
Anyway I got the block back about three weeks ago. I then was out of town for a week so I was delayed starting some. I am on a Komatsu group on FB and a guy on there gave me a rebuild manual for the engine. It has step by step instructions for taking it apart and for building it back. The manual includes clearances, tolerances, and torque specs on everything. I have been using the manual step by step just to make sure I don't miss anything.
My heater also went out in the shop so there has been less motivation to get out there after work. I got started on it on Sunday last week. Here are some pics. At this point I am missing a bolt in the exhaust manifold. Also the water pump that I was sent is a different model than the original. It will bolt up but looks like it came on a different model originally, I'm not sure how I want to deal with this. I may modify the pump I have. I don't want to spend the money on another and sending the other back to China might not make financial sense. If I go with this pump I will need slightly longer bolts and a different shape hose.
always great feeling sliding pistons into a new bore..I've got a Iveco engine to do myself in the springtime,amongst 7 other projects LOL Nice work and to see the update.
I haven't been very quick about getting this back together, or good about keeping the forum up to date........Got the engine bolted back in tonight, I put antisieze on the mount bolts for sure this time.
Still have a good bit to do before I can try to fire it up.
I got the radiator, and all the hydraulic tubes hooked back up along with all the control rods. Its a lot more work than it looks like. I have also been taking it easy as I go.
Here is how she sits. I have to add all the fluids back (currently completely drained), buy a couple bolts and nuts, figure out what I'm going to do with the muffler, and it will be ready to try. I also have to rig up gauges and a starter switch and a kill switch.
Got it fired up this weekend. Started easily, then figured out the slow idle was set way too fast. had a few moments of panic, Now it seems that I have stuck steering clutches.
Here is after I got is slowed down and tried the tracks out.
Great videos and narrative Gator..glad to see it coming back together for you..didnt know about the JIS adapters..valuable information..get some oil in 'er and get it outside and run it around those clutches might just break free!! best of luck