never thought of that Glyford..this Isuzu 4LE2 doesnt have any mounts for accessory drives like a Detroit has on the flywheel housing,nor on the front area of the engine..it's predecessor the C240 Isuzu had the pads where you could mount accys,cam gear drive..it's pretty tight on the front end of this engine with only a bump out for the cam to drive the injection pump cam and rack. Maybe I could direct drive the pump if I had to off the crank snout or make up a dual pulley type arrangement..I have two of these gensets I got at auction, this one's use is for my next shop to drive two 5hp IR two stage air comps, two 5ton 3phase package A/C units and a 3ph transformer to upconvert to 480V for a plasma cutter.Ive got more gensets here than I know what to do with,they come and go,plan to sell off the larger units and keep this one thats why Im putting the effort into it.I'm fabbing up the enclosure now,it has to come off and be sandblasted then painted before it gets lined with Roxul soundproofing and completed.

[quote=GLyford]I did something slightly different on mine, there is a backing plate behind the wheel bushing and a "stop" plate where the pivot bushing rides, I tied them together with a 1/4" gusset. I also bored out a 1" round spindle 5/8 to go over the mower spindle, then welded that on. I didn't have the milling machine then. I have busted other things on the axle (tie rods, basically the entire steering setup, center pivot plates) but haven't killed these yet.



The thing about doing it your way is that most trailer tires are a little bigger than tractor fronts, and you can set the wheel centers an inch or two higher relative to the axle beam than original to compensate for the difference in wheel rolling diameter. My tractor has a slight tilt to it..Had I welded a little gusset on each axle they may have survived. yours looks exactly what Mine used to look like..... Less the gusset

Well I went to the Electric office today and told them to turn off the power to my shop. I was thinking that they would turn it off when they came to pull the meter. NOPE, she said alright it's off and we will be out in a few days to pull the meter.

I got home and sure enough it was off. I was thinking I would have this weekend with power, apparently there is a contactor inside the meter.

Anyway I got the power terminated inside the house today, the 4/0 aluminum wire kicked my butt but I finally got it bent around and terminated.



All the wood panels go back on and you can't tell that it was installed. Now I have to terminate it at the shop....until them it's dark and cold in there.

Oh yeah, and the compressor on my shop heat pump went out so I guess I'll be pulling that one out and installing the gas package unit. I don't have NG at the shop so I may see about converting it to propane. Its that or get a new propane meter at the shop. Our gas company won't ley you run plastic pipe under ground, only copper. The trench for that to my meter would be about 600'. The cost of the pipe would be crazy high. The gas company would charge about 300 to install the meter. If I go Propane I have a tank for free but the unit will have to be converted. I have tested the AC on the package unit and it worked this summer. I probably won't have heat the heat of the winter, but I didn't before this year anyway.

Yes the battery powered wheelbarrows are available now. I'd definitely either make or buy one if I had a lot of work to do. Most are low power (under 500watts) so I dropped the idea of using one as a base for my loader. The hardest part is digging up the dirt and loading.

I may use a riding mower frame but not sure. I'm curious about the transaxle efficiency compared to roller chain and sprocket reductions. Bicycle chain is 98% efficient if clean and straight alignment.

I'm getting into welding now and so ill probably just fab up a heavy duty frame to my exact desired dimensions.

I've had a tendency to want to repurpose things especially free or curb finds. But $100 of new metal is nothing for a well built machine.

10-4, Bunk!---postal here sucks too ---- Virginia been waiting 2 months for a package that according to seller was shipped an hour after she bought the items and now tracking shows the package has been all over the country and back.--right now its laying in postal warehouse 58 miles from here---been there for 2 weeks and not moved. Yesterday a few small packages were tossed out on the ground by our great third world, non english speaking, terrorist mail woman!
Anyway-- still trying to look up parts ---- Motion may be the best place to start for the bearings. the guy we have is something else!--one look at old bearing and he goes in the parts bins and comes out with the right one OR one that will work in its place! GOTTA love guys like that! lol!
Front wheel is a bit loose and one front bottom roller is ready to fall off. --have to take it off and if its just bearings and seals, maybe we can rebuild it as long as the shaft is still good. if not, I did find some for $158.00 ++ $45.00 shipping and they are new ones.
might have to leave track rails be for now and keep looking for different ones and do them later after we see how much else is in need of fixin! --- I know both leveler cylinders leak, also one bucket dump cyl. is lesking --- not a big deal to put seals in them. they kinda look like the ones the 1530 skidloader uses.

Comparison pics of the expanded metal.


Hinge pins are retained with a bolt.


Now I'm relaxing. I'm pooped....

Spent over 2 hours designing the stand, table, motors mounts, shaft mounts, etc today.
I use my cad program for my plasma table to design with.
I set the overall size I want, then place the items that I know the size of, in the drawings.
Once I get all the items/parts draw and scaled out, all I have to do is measure each part to get the cut list.
Couple of clicks and push one key and it tells me the length of the part.
ex. The legs from the base to the table top need to be 27 5/8" long.
That is if I use a 1/2" thick top, but I may use a 3/8" tick top and that will make the legs 27 3/4" long.
I can also add text to the drawings and print them out, to use as blue prints in the shop.

Awesome

Right about not much room in there!--- looks like an excellent job machining and welding it up!

Beautiful job!

'chuck and duck' ---Vermeer 1600, 16 inch knives in it. ---- Ya, they do make noise! LOL!

I moved the hose from the out on the bucket valve so that it connects to the main return before the filter. Now I can steer without it stalling. But it Is one jumpy machine. to travel it takes reducing it to low idle speed in order to send power to the wheels with out getting bounced out of the machine and the same goes when lowering the bucket. It wants to drop like a rock only twice as fast! The out from the bucket valve, being moved from the in on the travel to just before the filter, has no kind of back pressure or flow restriction. That I think is what has led to the the bucket coming down so hard. When I go to drive it or turn it the pressure gauge on the left side jumps to 800, the gauge over before the filter did not move, stayed at zero. When driving, the pressure goes up to about 800psi and that's it. If I rev the engine I get more noise, but not more speed. So some where their is an 800psi relief valve. Steering will cause it to go higher, like to 1200psi and higher.

So I went and got the I.R. thermometer. The pump is flaming hot at 180+. The tank is about 80 and the divider is at 90. The travel speed of the machine went up with the new pump, but with the change in flow top speed is down. Interestingly, the Four wheel drive is still working.

So we have some improvements but not enough and still have way too much heat.

So now I'm going to go do the pressure testing in the order you gave me. Hopefully, tomorrow will be a good day to get those done.

sounds like you been keepin busy !

forklift rentals are cheap if you have something big like this shaper to move..most rental companies are in major city areas,but even if you are 'out in the sticks' they are a good deal for a day or two..some rental companies will work with you to have the rental delivered and wait for a 20minute period then transport your machine and rented forklift on their truck to the next work site WITH your rented forklift from them..cheaper than a rigger. No substitute fro the right equipment on the job.FWIW

a Lot of stuff is coming with vertically mounted direct drive power plants. Sonny, if you have a pump that is bi-directional then you can direct couple it. the pump on the mini hoe is designed for direct drive But it's belt driven due to space availability on the front end of the shaft. it also allowed me to set in a slight speed reduction because it's a 11 GPM 2 stage pump. it's been in operation since 2005 and still kicking without any issues and no jackshaft. it's most likely because with the 2 stage pump it doesn't really load the belt too much once that 2nd stage drops out under load in it drops to 2.8 GPM. direct drive pumps normally have needle bearings on the drive end and they are not designed for radial thrust. I've just been lucky and also cautious to keep the belt tension at the min. required to prevent slippage. if it goes out on me I'll re design it. Got enough to fix with pivot bushings for now.

Made a couple wood locks last winter---- actually do work like steel padlocks. A lot of little parts inside that you dont see and they are kind of interesting to make ---- tests your abilities for sure! lol!

I run the pump on the Jake (Mini hoe) with a belt.. works fine. I did have to put a idler in on the slack side to keep the belt from slipping tho. The dump kit I have in my pickup is a battery pig too. I leave the engine running when I use it. self powered system on the trailer is a good idea. can haul it with ANYTHING and still be able to run it.

This is what the plans called a "deacon's bench". The seat raises up and there is storage space under it. Virginia wanted the seat higher so I added 10" to the center of it and this is what it turned into. Holds a lot of stuff now! lol!
For the bottom, I had a couple of red cedar boards 3/4" thick that just fit. the rest is from scrap lumber I found at a jobsite. back , arms ,seat , frame and legs are full 1 1/2" thick cut from 2" lumber and the sides/ends/bottom all 3/4" boards.
It's heavy and after 25 years still looks good for being used all the time.
Virginia lays on it now and then. She is short enough to fit!

The name tag was made from a couple short boards glued together so her name would fit. Shelf was from 1/2" thick boards. Router and round nose bit was used to do the engraving on both. These were made from cherry that I cut on the big sawmill that used to have .