Machine Builders Network+ Forums Thread Like Summary - new blades for Mower King skid steer mower

Well I got a bit too pushy last week operating a skid steer mower, its a cheapie RB auction Mower King skid steer 'brush mower' hydraulic powered skid steer loader attachment,



So I broke a blade in half trying to cut down a 3"diameter tree near a fenceline..the blade fractured and went flying in to the woods, had to shut it down as unbalance and vibration was crazy with only one blade.
So I'll have to make some new blades for this mower. I got new 5/8" grade 8 hardened bolts to hold on the new blades.
Not pictured is I turned up some new heavy pattern washers on the lathe from some 4140 steel stock for the mounting bolts.


I needed to replace BOTH blades for this mower due to balance issues and wanted to upgrade from 1/4"thick originals to a heavier blade as well while I'm at it.
I went to the LWS steel shop but they wanted $80 for a section of 4"wide,1/2"thick steel flat to make new blades from, but I knew there was a cheaper way...
so I pulled a section of 1/2" thick plate from my plate stock, always good to have 'inventory' to draw upon.


Got out the track torch to cut the 1/2"steel plate, it's been a while since I ran this old beast from the 60's..good old unit that still gets results..smooth edges a lot nicer than trying to free hand burn plate.
When you get one of these running right you can make cuts with very little grinder cleanup necessary..it takes a bit of setup and seat time to run one but gives a great finish.
You can see the hand burned edge at the bottom of the plate vs. the smooth cut the track torch gives..
Anyway I got this without track sections, I had to make two sections of track, they bolt together for long cuts..here we are just using one 6ft.section.
They were a PITA to make with the groove machined in the top,I had a machinist do it at work 20yrs ago on an old 50's Gorton milling machine.


Got the plate section cleaned up and cut to length, 14" long sections..cleaned up with grinder.


Drilled the 1-1/4" hole for the anchor bolt, it was a close as I could get to the metric 30MM hole as the original blades had..I drilled
both together to keep the dimensions as close as possible..The original blades had a bend or offset bent into them, I left the new blades straight
so I could drop the mower flat on the ground and not have the new blades hit the ground..they clear by about 4" where the originals hit the ground.

The metal cylindrical thing in the foreground on the drill press is a magnetic chip grab,great for drilling,you pull the chips off the drill press and then pull
the handle back over the trash can, the knob moves the magnet inside the tube away from the metal chips and they drop into the trash..about 25yrs old still works great on steel


Then brought the blades back for a second pass thru the track torch to cut the cutting angles instead of grinding for HOURS on end to cut the edges.
It's trickier than you think to set this up twice for both edges with no guide blocks or jigs to hold the blades..all by eye..
they are bush hog blades after all but we always try for accuracy whenever we can


So I did do some cleanup work on the belt grinder and wheel, more to come as thats enough for a Saturday..time to drink some beer for now


more to come on this..broke the root rake as well, got some upgrades to do there too

got both blades finished and installed, drilled the 5/8" Grade 8 mounting bolts for cotter retention pins and installed them both..hopefully this will last the next brushy go-round..one of the original metric blade mounting bolts had stripped threads..great time to replace them with the Grade 8s. Somewhat complex but easy project completed in time for turkey day..Happy Thanksgiving