What kind of solder do they use on fittings on the end of hyd. lines? Blew one end off the 340 back to the hitch lift,---- hitch is up with tiller hangin on it, cant lower it without pressure to release the valve block.
Got a REAL mess here now! ever see a 17 gpm pump at 2000 pounds+ pressure and 1900 rpm motor speed dump out a half inch hose?? Probably 2 or 3 gallons before I could hit the key to shut motor off!
The fitting was already leaking but did hope it didnt get worse before I got don tilling ----- well that didnt happen. Anyway the solder they had on there dont look like they had the fitting hot enough to sweat properly. Will regular solder hold?
no Sonny it has to be brazed on with brazing rod to contain the pressure..most refrigeration guys(Jim)are familiar with the process..clean and check the fitup of the joint then heat and flow the brazing rod into the joint..ordinary plumbing solder isnt up to the job..too soft
AH HA! kinda wondered about that! ----well, this is just lead solder on these! Somebody up the line screwed up on these. I cant figure why they are copper fittings to start with. Dont think these are original IH parts here. All IH lines I been around have steel fittings on them. HMMMM! ---- the plot thickens! lol!
copper might be OK on the return side but then the fittings probably aren't right for each other either..the only common interchange with copper would be NPT pipe thread..most hydraulics use tapered flare or O-Ring nowadays,pipe thread is out the door,basically obsolete..well anyway good thing you caught it even if it broke-instead of sousing up your garden with hyd oil
a pic of half of the manifold block and the short tubes with the fittings. you can see the solder job was shoddy and also the tube is kinda rough. Temporary fix for now will have to be clean and re sweat both fittings til I can figure a way around the bad tubes.
Cant find a used block with funky tubes like these and my hoses wont reach a block without them, so for now Hope it will hold for the season til I find a different way to connect the hoses to the block. I will probably have to get longer hoses too which is no problem.
Sonny,you need to completely clean the hardlines coming out of the block of all solder. (1)An easy fix would be to cut the soldered ends off the tubes,find or buy a pair of straight JIC to NPT adapters, fit them up in the 3-jaw chuck lathe you have (you do have it wired by now I hope) and turn the NPT threaded portion off,then backbore the JIC part to fit the tube INTO the hole you just made in the adapter and braze it onto the tube..this would give you JIC taper to fit a hose to on the end of your steel lines. Alternative Fix #2 would be to cut both steel lines off the pictured block and drill and tap the block NPT and thread a pair of NPT to JIC adapters right into the block..connect your hose there.
The JIC adapters are $2.05/each..this is why I always buy more than I need when purchasing,need two,buy four..the shipping is always the same, a couple spare fittings never broke the bank for me,and are worth much more when you need em'.
Additionally I just exploded the drive chain input to the transfer case of my mini articulated loader last evening, moving a tree..morse chain from the hydraulic motor to the transfer case input shaft just spins with no grip on the input sprocket..II think the transfer case is OK,the input sprocket and chain are worn out and will need replacing..very tight location in there,repair will have to wait as I have a lot going on right now..luckily was able to get the miniloader into neutral..got the onry 6000lb forklift and scooped it up and moved it to the pad in front of the barn for further inspection..the morse chain drive is meant to be a safety 'fuse' of sorts to protect the transfer case from damage..the cases have gotten VERY hard to find as of late..just one more piece of meat on the plate here to chew..Everyone have a safe Memorial Day..enjoy
Cleaned and re-soldered the fittings and they are holding BUT one of the sub fittings is leaking. Cant get another full turn out of it and the tape is starting to leak. Need a straight swivel instead of the 45 degree they have on it. Might get the temporary fix to work yet. I am still looking for the right block to put on it and longer hoses to reach it.
Got another idea on the problem block, -----un-hook the lift cylinder from that section of valve bank and hook directly into one of the side outlets and use 1 of the other handles instead of the drawbar valve. That would bypass the damaged valve.
that's what I like to see....ADAPT and OVERCOME.
we like to call it a 'workaround'-as long as too many of them don't add up to dysfunction
I would rather have the cylinder hooked to the regular valve anyhow! ---- then I would have smooth precise control instead of the jerky poor control of the drawbar valve.
Blew the line fitting AGAIN! ----- gotta route the lift cylinder to one of the other valves and not use the one with the check valves in it! ---- They are making too much pressure in the line and blowing things apart!
Havent had time to work on the 340 yet --- gotta happen soon cause I need it on the tater digger!
I knew that solder and spit wouldnt hold it all together Sonny..fix it once fix it right
Re-routed the cylinder to the other valve--now the old line pumps oil as soon as motor starts!-- not sure how or IF that valve can be plugged or not! Ya I think that whole valve and pipe set-up has been butchered up too much to ever hold.
Right now trying to see if one of the sunstars will pull the digger, then do more research on the 340 system.