A while back I finally broke off the tabs that lock the forks to my skidloader plate. NH has a simple way to do it with 4 tabs welded to the bottom back of the attachments and an angle top bar that hooks over the top plate.
I had converted some forks from a bobcat that had a whole bunch of junk welded on the back,---VERY complicated set-up, so I cut 50 pounds of junk off and welded the tabs on to match my NH along with a top angle and did it all with the torch in a hurry. This was 25 or 30 years ago and it all held til I got the brainy idea to subsoil with the forks! ---NOT their intended use I know but going slow all was fine til I hit an old concrete foundation at the edge of the garden and broke my tabs off.
anyway I got fancy and cut some new ones out with the metal cutting band saw and am about ready to weld them on.
I cut them out rough then ground them down to close shape of original NH tabs. Copied a tracing of the original tabs on my bucket and went from there.
Raining here today so cant weld them on,---gotta work in the wood shed instead!
some pix of the new tabs. I also used thicker metal this time too! LOL!

hope you're gonna use some decent 1/4" 7018 and multi-pass weld that on at 200amps Sonny..and not use those old 1962 rod laying around in your old toolbox..oh,wait, mine are from 1982..I think I need a new box too

I haven't used stick in years... I would have to practice a bit. Just been using the flux core wire feed for most of my stuff. just use multiple passes when needed..

I am using flux core wire on this,---Century 200 welder.

This is my go-to welder for most of my stuff. I run flux core in it but it is capable of gas. I have a Hobart 230 Ironman that's set up with a spool gun for Aluminum, a HF tig for SS and I just not too long ago got a Yeswelder TIG for aluminum.

I usually use my Syncrowave tig machine for stick,more often than not I just MIG everything with ER70S6 and 80/20 gas. I did score a ton of old stick electrodes years ago at an auction,(refrigerator full)-a lot of them are super high nickel content 100K psi rod from the 70's and the clay flux is crumbling and coming off, so I just scrape it all off and use it for TIG filler rod for stainless and oddball stuff..for stick I caved in from my strict USA made welding machine rule and bought a orange chinese "Hitbox" 200A stick welder,just add a 'S' to the start of the brand name,its the size of a tissue box, 120 or 240V and will burn a 1/4"rod pretty well..not as smooth as the Miller but its great for a quickie job,throw it in the back of a golf cart and plug into a small generator like Jims 3500W and go anywhere..run what ya got but watch your tensile strength of the flux MIG wire Sonny when doing work like the fork brackets that are stressed to the max..use 70,000psi wire at least..i'd be using the 100k psi rod..i dont know what tensile the flux core is

I have small HF model scratch start TIG that I would do stick with if I needed. I keep that one on the work van with a small bottle of argon (20) for stainless steel sinks & such in restaurants. I have a half dozen different adapters so I can power it in different stores. it works OK for as often as I use it. Pretty sure both of the TIG machines I have at the house have stingers for stick somewhere. I retired the old Craftsman stick machine I had a long time ago. got rid of the Lincoln welder generator I had because the magnets came off the flywheel & it wouldn't excite the generator any more. Spent more time fixing it than I did using it... gave it to a kid for a farm machine..

I think the wire in the welder now says 90,000 on it. I know its some hard shit when you try to grind it off and a chisel wont dent it. gotta be extreeeeeemly careful and get the parts in perfect alignment before you weld cause they aint commin off after you weld them on without destroying them.
I did the old ones 25 years ago with 6013 cause thats all I had at the time and I really didnt get a good weld on the old brackets back then and they lasted all this time. You wouldnt believe the stuff I lifted with them, course I never got wild and stupid either. always low and slow when moving stuff in case they did break!
Gotta make a cardboard pattern of the front plate to see for sure that where I tack welded the first ones is right,----I dont think its right, might be a half inch off and if so its a no go to hook up! They gotta be spot on or they wont latch,---no room for error!

Got the tabs welded on and one side is a tad off,---been grinding on it so the latch block will come down the slides and lock in place. I was off just a tad but other than that they hold the load.
Got dark and I was beat so tomorrow is another day and daylight is needed to finish the job.

The little welder setup I was talking about

got it working perfect now! When I pick up a load now the forks dont squeak, creak or groan like they used to so I guess I did some good.
Used them all afternoon to move inventory around and no problems at all with them.
Did a test lift,---picked up the back end of a IH 560 tractor to see if anything would break and it all held so all was a success with the new heavy tabs.

that looks like some nice work Sonny..it oughta hold up for a while..machines take a beating

I picked up some 6011 at HF today & hooked up the little red machine just to see if I could still do stick.. I may just go to using that little inverter with stick instead of toting around the flux core machine. A Lot smaller & lighter. Dropped a bead on a piece of rusty scrap and it looked pretty good.. Guess I still have it after all.

I like stick for dirty iron! Takes a lot of time to clean it for wire but I do clean it good,---so far it has been working.

I find if you turn the heat up a little bit more than you'd need for clean steel the rusty shit welds okay. All depends upon what I'm working on and how much I depend on that weld.