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#1948 01/01/2021 01:23 PM
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sonny Offline OP
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Finally found a little 310---- been looking for one for half my life. They always sold for WAY more than my wallet could handle. Ran into this one that needs bearings put in the first/reverse transmission shaft.
NOW!----- to do that the tracks have to be split, finals removed, then the diffy/trans. is in one unit and comes out next. Ring gears and steering bands come out then you can get to the shaft and slide it out ! --- big job but I'm game!
Ice storm here right now, so we are waiting til next week to haul it home. Weather s'posed to be better/warmer, into the forties so as of now its wait and see.
Going to load it on the neighbors gooseneck trailer. Seller has a big 150hp White fwa tractor and we figure on running a chain all the way over the trailer and then pull it right on.
We hauled the counterweight home with an extra complete track and spring and 2 giant manuals for the tractor.
The tractor also had a #33 backhoe for it but I wasnt interested in a hoe on this little guy, since that 33 is WAY too big for it.
I have 2 33 hoes here plus a 35 off of 580 tractors, so there is always possible swaps there IF ever needed. --- I just never cared for hoes on crawler tractors.
This loader has the nice solid bucket and not the clam that most of them had---- dont want clam buckets either.
Anyway thats about the size of my upcoming deal! Wish me luck! LOL!!

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"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
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at least you got some spare parts with it Sonny. A good serviceable rail(track)is a definite bonus, lucky to find one a lot were scrapped back in the last China scrap drive..keep us posted

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sonny Offline OP
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a couple pix. of loaded up and ready to head home and at neighbors shop where we are going to work on it this winter.
Right now we have a major problem getting the master pins out of the track rails to split the tracks so we can get the rear end/transmission section out. It has to come out, finals have to come off, steering bands and differential gears all have to come out to get to the transmission shaft bearings.
A bunch of other stuff also has to come off, gas tank, which has the top rusted out and is part of the seat, so will have to make up some sort of tank later before loader can be used.
It will be really stripped down to get into the bearings! ---- No biggie--- just take a lot of time.

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"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
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There's a guy on youtube currently going through a Cat D2, "Squatch253"
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCv_zjUQJ98JgBHcch2PP7Vw
and he is currently working on the transmission. He is going farther into his than you will have to, but it is still fun to see the process starting from the "find" all the way through.

Last edited by GLyford; 01/09/2021 07:10 AM.
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gotta watch youtube. I get sucked in next thing I know half the day is gone..


I know a lot about a lot of things BUT I still have a lot to learn.
Life is what you make of it. So, why not make a working machine to make it easier.
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sonny Offline OP
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Right now the track split is the only problem I have on this one They claim you can drive them out--- BUT these wont! --- 16 pound sledge hammer full swing with strong guy---me holding the big bar and no go! --- dont want to break the drive sprocket either.
Heat didnt do the job. --- bigger torch?
didnt wand to have to make a pin press ----- guess that is always an option if all else fails.
Nick suggested cutting thru the pin boss with cutoff grinder then after the pin is put back in--- weld the gap shut ---- he says they do that on small crawlers and have good luck with it.
Another problem we have is figuring which way is out on these --- looks to me like one track rail was put on backwards at some point.

How much pressure would 1 inch all thread rod hold if that was used for press frame? --- not a lot of room for big stuff in there.
Always open to ideas!


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If my math is right, about 8 tons it will start to stretch, so maybe half that.

Root diameter of 1"-8 thread is about 0.84", half that squared times pi is about .55, times 30,000 psi yield strength for grade 3 mild steel gets you just over half or about 16,000 lbs., aka 8 tons.

Fastenal doesn't agree, and thinks you can go higher, they list their plain steel threaded rod at 60000 tensile (breaking), looks like most of their yield strengths are maybe 80% of that, so maybe 12-15 tons reasonable working load per rod in your assembly, assuming even loading.

https://www.fastenal.com/product/fasteners/rods-and-studs/threaded-rods/600173?categoryId=600173&level=3&query=all%2Bthread&isExpanded=true&Dia/Thread%20Size=1%22-8&showAll=Dia/Thread%20Size&productFamilyId=23392

So with a 20 ton jack, two threaded rods (I'd think double nuts at each end would be cheap insurance if you have room for them) and as much heat from the torch as you feel comfortable giving it, while smacking the end, might almost be enough to get you somewhere.

Just remember, pump side down on a hydraulic jack on its side...

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sonny Offline OP
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Was kinda wondering about jack position and IF all jacks will work on their side or not! ---- Looks like I have 1 broken track bushine in there too ---- Dont know if we can do anything about that or not.
Re-sizing a few progress pix. right now, will put them up a bit later today.
Ok--- PIX. of the job ---so far!
tracks off, had to cut one master pin out with torch, got the other one to finally drive out, rear end on the floor ready to totaly take apart to get into the transmission.
Mikes big shop hoist raising the loader so we could get to some side bolts.
counter-weight/backhoe brackets finally off, had to cut clamps and bolts to get them off and I would leave them off except have to have them back on to hold the counterweight. There will never be a backhoe on this loader again so the front weights under the front of the motor will be removed-----dont need extra weight on the front adding to the bucket weight making it nose heavy.
still have to take the seat/gas tank/battery box/tool box unit off, its all welded together as one unit.
Another problem we found is that the gas tank section is ate out, so will need to try cutting part of that out and try to find a 10 or 15 gallon poly tank to put in its place and weld angles to stiffen up the sides and hold the seat. seat is under the gas tank-----have seen pix. of tanks mounted back on top of the counterweight but that is a no, no, for me! I would back into a tree or in some brush and tear it off! lol!--so it gotta go back under the seat where it is safe!
Anyway this is what we got done so far! 60 year old bolts dont come out very easy. LOL!!

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Last edited by sonny; 01/10/2021 01:06 PM.

"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
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sonny the last time I broke track on the 977 i didnt have a track press so I just burned the master pin out of the track links (inside link and outside) I was going to replace it with a new master pin anyway..if you are careful you can burn the weld away that holds it in place and re-weld it again with the new(er) rails. I did make a track jack with a section of 7/8"acme threaded hard rod and heavy pattern nuts,and some rectangular tubing..sure made connecting up the track rails easy later.
I had three worn track bushings in my replacement used tracks I put on,I just welded them up with ER70-S6 MIG,overlapped it and ground it down again to take the same shape as the other bushings..a lot of time spent with a grinder but it worked out OK..-that was 20yrs ago..man how time flies and crawlers don't..work safe,best of luck..lookin at your photos I'dve steam jenny'ed that little Case before wrenchin on it,but thats just me..I'll bet it was thick in there

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sonny Offline OP
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old dirt/oil combo was too hard to wash off and it was ice/snow outside, so we just tore into it.---kinda scrape as we go.
Found the problem child in the transmission. It was needle bearings in the reverse idler gear went out and cut a groove in the hollow shaft that they ride on. The gear bore could be worn beyond holding new bearings---dont know yet. Guess this was a real problem in these crawlers! needle bearings were not heavy enough to hold the weight of the tractors.
I might have to try welding and grinding on the shaft or take it to town and let them weld/mill it to specs.
If I can get them,--probably should put all new bearings in the whole transmission since this loader did have a backhoe on it and probably was subjected to a hard life! --- A hoe on a little crawler is a very stupid idea to start with! Never could see the purpose of doing that. --- imagine the pressure on the little gears in there when you were on ruff ground and bouncing around with all that weight behind you plus all the loader weight in front!
shaft in pic. shows the wear into the shaft. finals have to come off and differential comes out after steering bands are off.
After looking closer at the gas tank--Well, gonna have to cut it out, build a frame in there and find some sort of small tank to set in there. Original tank is part of the seat , battery box, and tool box as a unit all welded together. --- that was another design flaw by Case ---- all of these tanks rotted out and thats why I am seeing pix. of them with tanks hangin on the top of the counterweight in back.
Anyway thats as far as we got yesterday afternoon.

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I have a family friend that runs all of his stuff off of portable marine tanks, no gas left on the machine when not in use to get tampered with, gas doesn't go stale, etc. etc.

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I haveta second Glyfords suggestion of the small marine tank if you don't haveta run a long shift with it Sonny..great idea..maybe even find one to fit inside the old fuel tank,make a flip-top lid to protect it? or maybe just weld up an aluminum tank to fit INSIDE the old steel tank..cut it open with a sawzall and fit the new tank-in a tank..1.5" aluminum pipe screw-off lid for filler neck? Don't get any ideas either-streetsigns don't weld up too good LOL

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sonny Offline OP
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Ya,---bout need to make up some sort of tank to fit under the seat where old one is---cut it out and run angle braces across to hold new tank and seat.
Not a good place anywhere else on this one to put a gas tank. the hydraulic tank is under the hood behind the dash on these, otherwise a tank off of a 310 wheel tractor might work.
still lookin for bearings and a shaft, but kinda think welding/grinding on it will be the only way to fix it.


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I got to hand it to you Sonny you don't mess around. I've had my dozer for almost a year and haven't done 1/4 of what you did in a week.


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sonny Offline OP
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Good parts book and a big ole service book sure helps a bunch!!! --- the exploded views in parts book kinda gives a good idea of whats in there and how its held in.
Original plan was to start on it in the spring, but gardens here and some work on road building at Pontiac club show grounds kinda moved up the work on the loader. ---- we wont have near as much time to work on it then, so hittin it hard now.
one tenth of the job is taking stuff apart nine tenths is getting parts and putting it all back together.
Would still like to find a better set of track rails for it as these bushings have been turned already and are not in best of shape.
IF anybody hears of a pair for a G-310-G or 350 keep us in mind!
Gator---- we only worked half days on it but really tore into it --- kinda glad we did. --- Nice shop helps too! --- I kinda took over the neighbors shop!! lol! --- he is a big help, and since he quit farming last year he is bored so really got interested in Farmall cubs and when I found the loader, he got interested in it too. He has the big overhead lift, smaller shop hoist, room to work, and tools to work with. He is enjoying himself on this project, so it works for both of us.


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Sonny whomever you get parts thru make sure they ship them to you UPS or FedEx..NOT USPS!! you'll be waitin a year LOL

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10-4, Bunk!---postal here sucks too ---- Virginia been waiting 2 months for a package that according to seller was shipped an hour after she bought the items and now tracking shows the package has been all over the country and back.--right now its laying in postal warehouse 58 miles from here---been there for 2 weeks and not moved. Yesterday a few small packages were tossed out on the ground by our great third world, non english speaking, terrorist mail woman!
Anyway-- still trying to look up parts ---- Motion may be the best place to start for the bearings. the guy we have is something else!--one look at old bearing and he goes in the parts bins and comes out with the right one OR one that will work in its place! GOTTA love guys like that! lol!
Front wheel is a bit loose and one front bottom roller is ready to fall off. --have to take it off and if its just bearings and seals, maybe we can rebuild it as long as the shaft is still good. if not, I did find some for $158.00 ++ $45.00 shipping and they are new ones.
might have to leave track rails be for now and keep looking for different ones and do them later after we see how much else is in need of fixin! --- I know both leveler cylinders leak, also one bucket dump cyl. is lesking --- not a big deal to put seals in them. they kinda look like the ones the 1530 skidloader uses.


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sonny Offline OP
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Went lookin for track rails!--- NEW set with NEW pad bolts and nuts on the way -----R & L transfer is the carrier, sposed to pick up later today and 2- day trip to our door.
Pivot equipment parts llc. just outside of Indinapolis , IN. had some in stock for this unit and price shocked me---- thought the salesman was BSin me! --- got them for less than half of what other places wanted for new ones. He said that they were competitive with other places, so I decided to go for it!--my tracks are really too far gone to mess with.
Mike found a place that would replace the broken bushing in one rail and wanted $550. just for one and still have worn tracks.--- Thats when I went on the hunt for new rails!
Delivery sposed to be Wed. so we see! LOL!
As for trans reverse shaft,-- it looks like this old one will have to be welded up and ground down to original diameter since there are no shafts left in the country. These 310's up to 450's had this design flaw and the reverse idler bearings were not big enough to last very long and since I have started working on this one , I have run into a dozen guys in the same canoe with the same problem! LOL!! My luck!!! --- anyway we will get it going and since the weather is now pushing +30'ish degrees I can go next door and work again. --- This week of -10 degree crap had me grounded!


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sonny Offline OP
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Rails here! lol!!




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