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JIM #2975 02/09/2022 11:17 PM
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Had the Hyd. tank off the truck so I could clean it out. Put it up on the lift table and ran 300 deg oil through it for a while. pretty sure that got all the water out of the tank. This is what the Hydraulic oil looked like when I took it out of the tank and the start of the boil down process. there was lots of moisture trapped in that oil.

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com][Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com] [Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

I shut the flame off to check it out. Still kinda cloudy so fire it back up. Oil was at 220 in this one.
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]


I know a lot about a lot of things BUT I still have a lot to learn.
Life is what you make of it. So, why not make a working machine to make it easier.
JIM #2976 02/09/2022 11:28 PM
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was still bubbling at 300 deg so I stopped there, let it cool then pumped it into the drum. going to run the truck for a bit then drain some off the bottom of the tank & see what it looks like. I will probably boil it off at least once more but it's way better than it was.

I did get it back to the right color.

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com] [Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]


I know a lot about a lot of things BUT I still have a lot to learn.
Life is what you make of it. So, why not make a working machine to make it easier.
JIM #2977 02/09/2022 11:36 PM
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I don't know how much this thing holds but I'm pretty sure that there's at least 20 Gal in it now and it's not up to the sight glass. I need to measure it & calculate the capacity.

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]


I know a lot about a lot of things BUT I still have a lot to learn.
Life is what you make of it. So, why not make a working machine to make it easier.
JIM #2978 02/10/2022 09:02 AM
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Jim the formula I always used for tank capacity is length X width X height / divide by 240 should get you close in gallons..with basic 15w40 going for $16.50 a gallon,it would be a couple hundred to change that oil..I'd keep workin on it with your 'dewatering' process..great job

JIM #2979 02/10/2022 09:51 AM
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I divide by 230. (231 cu in/ gal). figure with baffles & all... .I priced fluid at TS yesterday. $200 gets me around 20 gal. figure probably be closer to 250 or three. I'll measure the tank today. I did more work to the hot pot. Tightened up the shielding on the sides and back AND finished installing the gas valves and thermostat. I'll be able to set the temp to around 225 and just let it run until it stops bubbling. Still need a knob on the t-stat & then I can index it. I'll be able to walk away from it without having to worry about it overheating now. that should speed up the process a little. Need to take the truck & put gas in it before I run it too much or I won't have enough to get to the station. I also STILL need to bolt the tank back down. It's just setting in place right now. Good weather today, so I hope to get the controls for up in the bucket hooked up too.
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com] [Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]


I know a lot about a lot of things BUT I still have a lot to learn.
Life is what you make of it. So, why not make a working machine to make it easier.
bunkclimber #2981 02/10/2022 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by bunkclimber
Jim the formula I always used for tank capacity is length X width X height / divide by 240 should get you close in gallons..with basic 15w40 going for $16.50 a gallon,it would be a couple hundred to change that oil. I'd keep workin on it with your 'dewatering' process..great job


I'm bass ackwards. your number would be more accurate accounting for baffles, plumbing etc. I have my days.
either way I'm looking at a 40-gallon tank. 8.5 X 32 X 36. I sure don't see a need for that. this truck did at one time Have hydraulic connections at the bucket. I assume it was for hooking up implements like saws & stuff. for what the system has now I'm sure that I could make do with a much smaller tank. shit that sight glass will NEVER see a level. I see no need to have that much oil. Don't run the truck long enough to get the oil very hot.

Last edited by JIM; 02/10/2022 10:48 AM.

I know a lot about a lot of things BUT I still have a lot to learn.
Life is what you make of it. So, why not make a working machine to make it easier.
JIM #2984 02/10/2022 12:47 PM
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The big tank is for runnin tree saws! --Got that connection up on my Hi-ranger too! For your use 20 gallons is plenty, and you could use a smaller tank without any problems.
Your clean oil looks great!
Original intended use was more for tree cutting and for extended run time of the hydraulic saws you would need a big tank to help cool the oil.
I figure for our type of use, you dont need that many gallons. Not sure what my Hi-ranger has but looks like about 40 gallons in it, but once the cylinders get filled it dont take much to operate them.


"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
JIM #2988 02/12/2022 10:20 AM
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5 Gal would be plenty now with a cooler installed Just because the oil recircs constantly. Got the updated controls put together. Just need to figure out a good mounting system. Something I can hang on the edge of the bucket is what I'm thinking. It's real handy to be able to take the controls in hand while up in the bucket. All the old levers were difficult to operate so I took them off.
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com] [Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]


I know a lot about a lot of things BUT I still have a lot to learn.
Life is what you make of it. So, why not make a working machine to make it easier.
JIM #2990 02/12/2022 07:53 PM
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Looks simple enough! -- Not sure how the Hi- ranger controls run but looks like they are on oil/air combo---VERY complicated setup!


"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
JIM #2991 02/13/2022 08:54 AM
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Sonny you have air over hydraulic to maintain the electrical insulation of the bucket, no metallic links (wires,hoses or cables) thru the fibreglass boom to the truck..the air lines are plastic so they don't conduct electricity..the plastic lines get cracks in them occasionally makes for difficult troubleshooting

JIM #2992 02/13/2022 11:32 AM
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Well, I used to be electrically isolated. I ran power to the winch and there's a receptacle for 120 runs off an inverter. The old controls operated the toggle switches via fiberglass rods. I just extended the wires and moved the switches. I don't plan on trimming any trees around any wires. I pretty much just use the truck for lot lights, road signs and setting equipment on roofs. I stay away from wires...


I know a lot about a lot of things BUT I still have a lot to learn.
Life is what you make of it. So, why not make a working machine to make it easier.
JIM #2998 02/13/2022 01:02 PM
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The boom top section on mine is steel with a plastic cover on it and the complicated control handle costs $2,200 up to have it fixed when it dont send you up,---- OR worse yet wont send you down!!! LOL! 70 feet down is a long slide! --- need ladder steps welded on the boom LOL!!


"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
JIM #2999 02/14/2022 03:30 PM
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end section of my boom is fiberglass.


I know a lot about a lot of things BUT I still have a lot to learn.
Life is what you make of it. So, why not make a working machine to make it easier.
JIM #3000 02/14/2022 05:34 PM
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I think some of the newer Hi-Rangers were fiberglass too. This one is not twisted or bent that I can tell. I only need to do trees away from power lines so not much danger of hittin live lines!


"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
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