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my buddy got this little tiller off the side of the road. tines were seized up wouldn't turn. Damn thing is welded shut.
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com] [Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]
I cut a hole in the gearbox & dumped in a quart of ATF. Let it sit for a while and worked it lose with a 3Lb hammer. Made a cap for the hole. got it running.
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com] [Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com] [Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

want to use it for my compost pile. my troy built is too big and rear tines makes it hard to work down a pile in an enclosed area. with this one I can chew the pile down roll it over and shove it back in the pen until I spread it in the garden. want to get a good jump on it this year


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Been hauling horse manure right and left here and got about 20 loads plowed under with another dozen loads spread on top to till in come spring.
Making a good onion patch along the side of the middle lane in the west gardens.
Got quite a few bags of tree leaves donated so mixed them in as well. also have a couple big piles about composted down to dirt.
I have used front enders to loosen up/stir/chop stuff to make hotbed planting mix too!
Your tiller was run out of oil? --- some of these are sealed with no way to add or check oil.


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Yeah this one WAS sealed. I don't think it was filled with oil maybe just greased. Looks like some cheap thing you would get at Home Depot or Lowe's. Does a pretty good job though.


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always amazing what people throw away..it sure looks like you had an easy time of getting it going..I thought you used a rubber freeze plug to seal the hole until I looked closer at your photo

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Farmall F-20, 30, 1020, 2236, etc. design! ---- thats kinda how they did the rad. cap and the bottom of the block so you can get to the rods. --- BIG ole holes with caps that just cover the hole and center wingnut bolt with bar on the underside!
I always liked that idea!


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Originally Posted by bunkclimber
always amazing what people throw away..it sure looks like you had an easy time of getting it going..I thought you used a rubber freeze plug to seal the hole until I looked closer at your photo

That was actually my intention but I couldn't find one that fit in my junk collection so I made the one I used. Just need to keep dirt out.
I did leave that quart of tranny fluid in there. figured it would help keep the output shaft lubed so it doesn't lock up again. ran it over the garden to turn under the grass that was growing along with the coffee grounds leaves and such. still no sign of any fluid coming back out any where.


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I'm not very good at daily posting. think I'll start a....
so what did you do this week string...


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my shop fridge stopped cooling,I lost a lot of food that was in the freezer..oh well..one of the copper refrigerant lines dips into the drain pan by design,they rot out right there and the refrigerant leaks out..its R134 so its an easy fix,the PITA was emptying it out so it can be moved to get to the repair..no service fittings so I'll have to braze one in..damn thing is only 5yrs old..I guess one positive thing is my back room of the shop got cleaned out as a side benefit..now I can see the floor again..too much stuff, too many projects, not enough room to operate

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Very common problems both the fridge and the lack of space. Just made a new condensate evaporator coil for a under counter freezer for one of the Sonics I service. the grease in a commercial kitchen combined with the condensate water speeds the corrosion process on copper dramatically. I suffer with the .too much stuff, too many projects, not enough room to operate problem as well..
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

I didn't take an after picture BUT this is on the compressor suction on soft serve ice cream machine. the manufacturer insulates the suction line all the way to the compressor. insulation holds the water from condensation against the steel can and is rusts through around the fitting. I was able to braze this one shut again. those 3 phase compressors run about $1200.00. this is the 4th one I've patched up from this. my patches have out lasted the compressors so far.
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]


I know a lot about a lot of things BUT I still have a lot to learn.
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Originally Posted by bunkclimber
my shop fridge stopped cooling,I lost a lot of food that was in the freezer..oh well..one of the copper refrigerant lines dips into the drain pan by design,they rot out right there and the refrigerant leaks out..its R134 so its an easy fix,the PITA was emptying it out so it can be moved to get to the repair..no service fittings so I'll have to braze one in..damn thing is only 5yrs old..I guess one positive thing is my back room of the shop got cleaned out as a side benefit..now I can see the floor again..too much stuff, too many projects, not enough room to operate

I think the manufacturers could improve those coils to make them last longer. ones that have been painted outlast the bare copper ones.


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this is one of those LG fridges that has the linear compressor,yes it is still under warrantee but its the second time its gone out no cooling first time it was the evap fan now its the compressor,there is a class action lawsuit against them..takes like 3 or 4 service calls from an LG tech to get it fixed. Stupid microprocessor board controls it with a VFD to run the compressor, Ive done the board reset and it error codes 2 which is compressor piston stroke/error. It was a scratch and dent from Sears surplus store,that was 3yrs ago. I was going to braze on service ports to the system,evac it then recharge with 134 but now it looks as tho Im gonna scrap it after researching all the LG failures with these units. I'm tired of this consumer CRAP.
Probably haul it out back and repair it with the Cat 977L, the fix all of fix alls.. That'l make for an interesting video.
If I had the available ceiling height I'd just go get a True commercial two or three door stainless mechandiser fridge..they last a long time.

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Fridges are not made very good now days for sure! --- We had some duds over the last few years,--kinda like micro-waves 5 year life span! sad.
Well I got the big lp weed burner out and went after the Explorer to get the ice off so we can open the doors and then I melted the ice off the windows and mirrors so IF we gotta go somewhere the car is clean!
Hope the ice melts off the trees before anymore of them break off. This afternoon our big magnolia tree went down, it was a 35 foot tall tree, snapped off at the ground.
Pine tree laying on the corner of the house and froze down and wont move til it thaws out a bit. Temps right at or just below 32 so no melting and next week looks like only 34 to 36 for the high---teens at night!
all of our pine trees look like a bomb went off beside them! Probably end up cutting them down after this!


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Got this one on Amazon CHEEP. we'll see how good it is....
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com] [Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]


I know a lot about a lot of things BUT I still have a lot to learn.
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Originally Posted by bunkclimber
this is one of those LG fridges that has the linear compressor,yes it is still under warrantee but its the second time its gone out no cooling first time it was the evap fan now its the compressor,there is a class action lawsuit against them..takes like 3 or 4 service calls from an LG tech to get it fixed. Stupid microprocessor board controls it with a VFD to run the compressor, Ive done the board reset and it error codes 2 which is compressor piston stroke/error. It was a scratch and dent from Sears surplus store,that was 3yrs ago. I was going to braze on service ports to the system,evac it then recharge with 134 but now it looks as tho Im gonna scrap it after researching all the LG failures with these units. I'm tired of this consumer CRAP.
Probably haul it out back and repair it with the Cat 977L, the fix all of fix alls.. That'l make for an interesting video.
If I had the available ceiling height I'd just go get a True commercial two or three door stainless mechandiser fridge..they last a long time.

LG needs to stick to cell phones we have a Samsung fridge in the house much against my desires but so far so good. I'll never understand why they decided they need a damn computer to make stuff cold. I have a 30 year old RV fridge out in the shed. Absorption ammonia system still kicking.. NO DAMN COMPUTER no compressor, just a heating element


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The power from my shop is fed from a separate meter. I am charged $32 dollars a month for that meter and a higher rate for the actual power. My house is fed with a 400 amp feeder. I am going to install a new feeder to the shop from the house panel to save that charge. Should take about a year and a half to pay back the cost.

Wednesday I rented a walk behind trencher. I trenched 260' to my shop. Since I had time left I trenched 320' to my kids play house in the woods, and about 175' from my water access box in the yard over to the same play house. Got all that done in 4 hours and back to the rental place, not bad for $112 rental.

I had to cross my feed from the house to the detached open garage (20 amp circuit). The power line should have been 12" deep but I thought I might hit it and since I didn't know where it crossed I turned off the breaker and went to trenching. I didn't notice hitting it, but after all the trenching I tried the breaker and it was dead. I found where I cut the wire and it was only about 5" deep. Anyway I have two freezers running off extension cords for now.

That night I layed the 4/0 wire in the trench and covered it back up with the tractor. I didn't have time to compact it much as it started raining. It ended up raining 2" over 2 days. My trench sunk in about 3" all the way to my shop....anyway I decided to let it dry out before I try to drag the dirt back in the hole. also where I cut the power line, the trench was full of water so I have to wait on that to dry before I can splice it back together.

Since I couldn't work on that I laid a power line out to the shop and installed a GFCI, this is a long run for a circuit but it will only be used for a chicken heat lamp and maybe an occasional power tool. I got that wired up but didn't get the trench filled in.

After that I got the water pipe and a freeze proof spigot. In my yard I had a box that housed two valves coming from the county water feed. One valve goes to the house and the other to the shop. Both at 1" pipes. The box had sunk into the ground by about 6" to the top. I used the back hoe attachment on the loader to dig out the box, and to finish the trench out. I had to cross a underground dog fence wire in 3 places with the trencher and I managed to not hit in any of the 3 places. I spliced into the line feeding my shop adding a Tee and a valve. I then in a new taller yard box. I still had to put bricks in the bottom of the hole to keep the box above grade. I also put gravel under the valves and sealed the edges to hopefully keep the dirt from building up on the valves, they both were buried under about 2" of dirt, making them not usable. The box was also full with about 12" of water from the rain. I used a wet dry vac to suck the water out. After installing the new valve I was able to turn the box 90 degrees to get all 3 valves in the same box. I ran the 3/4 pvc 175' to the play house and installed the freeze proof hydrant. I put gravel under and around it so that it will drain properly. Put plastic on top of the gravel then buried it with dirt. Backfilled that pipe so I don't have to worry about it freezing.

Lots of work over a few days, but now I don't have 200+ ft. of extension cords across the driveway and won't have to haul water nearly as far for the chickens and whatever else needs water out there on the other side of the driveway. I wasn't planning on the power outlet or the water but I had the trencher and one thing let to another.

Still have to back fill the power feed and power outlet trenches. I also have to fix the power line to the garage to get rid of the extension cord after it dries out some.

Here is the yard aftermath after the rain.

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

Power outlet trench, had to hand dig some of this one.
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]


Sad thing is I have everything I need to make a trencher attachment for my loader. I have the whole front end off of a case trencher, but it was taken apart 7 years ago and I never have gotten around to making it into a attachment.



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Ya coulda used my Davis T-66! lol! ---- It's only dug 300' on the complete new chain!


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I worked till 10 pm tonight after work with the tractor, a hoe and a shovel to try to get it all cover back up before it rains again.

I have true missippi mud in the winter and it never dries out most winters. It's a goopey mess but I got it better than it was, I may have to plow it up and level it better this summer, but I think I got it good enough for now. Had to drop about 15 times and scrape the mud off my boots 2" thick all the way around


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Had to call Kickapoo Drilling Co. to come fix our well. --- woke up to no water and couldnt figure out what was the problem. They found some burned wires and blown cartridge fuses. Power flashing off and on took the fuses out. they were probably getting weak anyway. Took them 2 hours to fix everything and re-set the pressure switches to their specs.


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drove 45minutes into Baltimore,MD to pick up two 4x8 sheets of 14ga sheet steel..didnt have to pack heat for that trip,-northside of Balmer-I was in and out in 15minutes and back on the freeway back to safety LOL.this country boy hates the city..damn the price of new metal has gotten expensive. Im not used to paying for new iron,I generally use used steel when I can but if you want something to look nice...gotta pay the price for clean and straight!

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Everything has gotten high! --- garden seeds have gone out the roof compared to a couple years ago.
Neither of us like going to town either!
Did drag some more branches out from the pine trees and cut a lot of damaged ones off. that was for the last 2 days.
still lookin for Case 310 parts in between the other work.


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Well I went to the Electric office today and told them to turn off the power to my shop. I was thinking that they would turn it off when they came to pull the meter. NOPE, she said alright it's off and we will be out in a few days to pull the meter.

I got home and sure enough it was off. I was thinking I would have this weekend with power, apparently there is a contactor inside the meter.

Anyway I got the power terminated inside the house today, the 4/0 aluminum wire kicked my butt but I finally got it bent around and terminated.

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

All the wood panels go back on and you can't tell that it was installed. Now I have to terminate it at the shop....until them it's dark and cold in there.

Oh yeah, and the compressor on my shop heat pump went out so I guess I'll be pulling that one out and installing the gas package unit. I don't have NG at the shop so I may see about converting it to propane. Its that or get a new propane meter at the shop. Our gas company won't ley you run plastic pipe under ground, only copper. The trench for that to my meter would be about 600'. The cost of the pipe would be crazy high. The gas company would charge about 300 to install the meter. If I go Propane I have a tank for free but the unit will have to be converted. I have tested the AC on the package unit and it worked this summer. I probably won't have heat the heat of the winter, but I didn't before this year anyway.


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Got the house put back together and got the wire terminated in the shop. I had to route the power through back to back LBs and then into the panel. Doing that with 4/0 and 2/0 common in a 2" conduit was very tough. The wire is Triplex direct bury. The breaker in the house is rated for aluminum or copper 2/0 through 350, so the 4/0 fit fine. Here aluminum is allowed for sub panel feeds but not for outlet wiring. Since this is a sub feed it's allowed. The wire runs 3' into the house.

The meter for the shop has a remote operated contactor in it. It was turned off yesterday so the feed was dead. I verified they weren't hot, then I pulled them out and taped the ends.

I left them in the top of the panel for now. The power company will eventually pull the meter, I am not sure what they will do with the wires. I am not sure if I own them or the power company. I think I do. I am going to keep the wires in the top taped up in case I need to put the meter back on.

After wrestling with the cables I was finally able to get them into the meter and into the lugs. I torqued the lugs to spec, which is tighter than what I would have probably done guessing at it. I'll retorque these in a few weeks.

So far so good. I didn't have any issues in the house when I turned on the lathe and the hot water heater kicked in. This should save me about $40/month. It will take me about 21 months to pay back the cost of the installation......maybe not the best idea to do this but I don't like seeing that $32 surcharge on the power bill and the higher rate for the shop. I also have a electric car that I just got about a month ago to go to work in. It has to charge out on the shop power and I don't want to pay the higher rate for that. It only draws 16 amps while charging.

My only issue is that I was only able to run a 3 wire system. My shop panel being a main panel all the commons and grounds are mixed and not
possible to be separated without rewiring everything. I consulted with the electric coop they said this is allowed due to the shop being remote and having grounds in place. I have read quite a lot about this online and it seems that this was once allowed but is now not best practice. If it was before 2008 the way I did it would be the normal way. That said its the only way to do this one. Here is the shop panel.

It's nice to have power back in the shop. Now I have to clean up, I have tracked a lot of mud in digging all the trenches.

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]




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Im my area you own the meter can and the wire..the PoCo owns the meter itself and the overhead service drop to your vertical service entrance,if its a URD buried by them they own it..anything else underground is premise owned(you) Local codes or interpretations will sometimes dictate what you can and can't do.'round here they don't allow reduced neutrals..it's all up to the local inspector..you'd play hell trying to burn up a 2/0 neutral anyway..you'll be fine..just pay good attention to neutral integrity and lug torques,and the attachment to the neutral bar. Torquing AA6000 aluminum conductors-clean conductor immediately after stripping it,apply Penetrox/Nolox compound,insert into lug, tighten,wiggle conductor to settle strands of wire without breaking service equipment,then tighten more,wiggle again if you can then final torque..my critique on your panel pictured here-you have way too much romex insulation inside the panelboard..cable should be free of outer jacket insulation inside the panel(yellow #12s and black #6s)..an inspector here would gig you on that..at least you have it up and running..best of luck

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went to the welding supply house and bought some AZ61A magnesium filler metal to weld up some broken Stihl chainsaw cases with

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wish I could weld lini! we have a couple of good motors that got a hole knocked in them when the rod went out! lol! I still think they can be patched back up enough to hold oil!

Anyway today I got the tubeless stems for the dump trailer tires,---been waitin on postal for over a month for the package! Got a lot of 10--needed 4, others will keep for later use. The trailer rims take the big .058 size not the little car size. I found some of the good metal kind with the nut that screws down on the washer and rubber seal in the hole. Got one put in---hope tomorrow I can get the wheel back on and take the other 3 off and fix them---- all four went leaking at the same time between the rim and stem seal---it has that funky non-adjustable style on it. These are like my truck has and I never had a problem ever with that style!


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hey Sonny those 'good metal kind' tubeless stems are good for converting the non-vented gas cans into usable vented gas cans! drill a hole behind the handle of the gas can,get your stem and tape a wire to it then fish it thru the hole and put the washer and nut on it..remove the valve in the metal stem, and with the cap on you can vent the can by loosening the cap on the stem..they work great! FWIW

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HOT DAMN!! now there is a million dollar idea!!!! LOL! ---- never thought of that and we have probably 20 of the funky 5-gallon size. most are the red gas ones---4 or 5 yellow diesel ones and 4 or 5 blue K-1 jobbers. The gas and diesel ones are the worst to use.
I ordered a pack of 10 stems----only needed 4 and now thinking maybe order another 10 pack and use them on the cans! Thanks for sharing the idea!!


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I'm not responsible for major spills,blow-ups,foul-ups,mis-fueling,overfueling,bleve's or other disasters arising out of the use and implementation of that idea..Greta Thunberg is already pissed off enough.

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LOL---ya, I know the feeling of ideas ----- too many stupids out there abuse things that work great and cause redesigns that will never work and just causes grief for the rest of us!


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that's how we got got those damn gas spouts that won't let any gas flow unless you can manage to hold the lever up and aim for the hole.. the way the tanks are on all my stuff I can't get the spout in the tank opening so it'll hook the valve lever open. I went and purchased some Old school spouts and tossed the crap that came on the cans.


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I bought some generic spouts and then found some snap in vents with a pop top cap. I drilled holes in the handles and installed those in all my cans. I think I got a pack of 25 of the vents for about $5 on amazon several years ago.


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TIG welded repair on the top bumper spike mounting boss on a Stihl 044 pro saw, the top anchor point for the bumper spike sure takes some stress over the years..this one broke off..took about an hour start to finish
[Linked Image from kuhnbros.com]

magnesium case (not aluminum) but the magnesium does weld a lot like aluminum..very sensitive to contamination,good idea to clean your material very well and give the filler metal (AZ61A) a good swipe with an alcohol pad..the mounting point was made with a recess for the mounting bolt,I filled it in with rod when welding it up as to get a good amount of new magnesium fused to the crankcase area for a strong bond..filed it down and re-drilled the recess and mount hole..worked out pretty good. Shot it with some Stihl trim paint afterwards,looks good. The older Stihl saws have some parts that are now not available.This repair saved the whole saw.

[Linked Image from kuhnbros.com]

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Good work there Bunk! that gives that old saw more years of use.

Today I finally got the other 3 tire stems put in the dump trailer, and messed a bit with the chipper---still cant get the starter to engage ----former owner put new starter, alternator, sol. and key switch, plus rewiring the whole thing. He skipped the ammeter for some reason. ---right now trying to figure out the way the wires are s'posed to go. Vermeer is no help as to sending a wiring diagram for the 1600-a chipper with the gas mo-par engine!--- life goes on! LOL!


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Originally Posted by sonny
still cant get the starter to engage ----former owner put new starter


Sonny don't assume the new starter is the RIGHT one..many different nose configurations to them nowadays,never trust someone else's judgement..it might bolt up and look OK but have wrong nose or pinion option,especially when replaced by others..I went thru that on a diesel forklift starter a while back..took 4 tries to get it right..very trying to the patience..best of luck

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I've had that problem with a couple of things. one was the flywheel though. the ring gear didn't run the same place as the original.


I know a lot about a lot of things BUT I still have a lot to learn.
Life is what you make of it. So, why not make a working machine to make it easier.
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Ya, this was starting just fine---now just the sol. clicks once in a while like switch is bad. hard for me to crawl back in there , but from what I can see he made a lot of not needed splices in there.
Guess I need to just put in a push/pull , or toggle switch for ignition and a button for starter ---- never did have any luck with the key switches on heavy equipment for some reason!
These chippers have a lot of vibration in them when you toss a 6" limb 10 feet long in ! lol! --- makes things dance around a lot.


"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
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Little weld repair.. I hate to bring work home BUT needed some Aluminum repair. Idiots dragged this grease shuttle around without a wheel for so long they ground one of the brackets down. Thought about pics after I had already started filling in the wore out stuff. Here's some pics of my fun... I built up the worn off ear by clamping a piece of rusty steel to what was left and then just laid pass after pass on the edge until I had enough material built up. sanded it down flush and drilled the holes. Used a piece of high speed steel tooling to cut the hole square.
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com] [Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com] [Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]
ALL BACK together.
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]
I'll straighten it out when I deliver it. Didn't realize it was off kilter until I posted the pic. Just need to bend the handle bracket down a little on the right side. they'll have it A.F.U. in a week anyway. Fast food employees don't give a shit about the equipment.



I know a lot about a lot of things BUT I still have a lot to learn.
Life is what you make of it. So, why not make a working machine to make it easier.
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Wasn't looking for pretty just needed to be able to put new wheels and handle on it. These stupid Shuttles run around $600 new before shipping. I'll take the 3.5 hrs labor... happy to take their money instead of them buying a new one.


I know a lot about a lot of things BUT I still have a lot to learn.
Life is what you make of it. So, why not make a working machine to make it easier.
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Maybe this is a special situation, but not too many people can appreciate the level of work that goes into something like that repair..In my book,with your level of competence and ability you should be charging them 5hrs of labor when you include expendables like shield gas, the electric to run everything, filler wire, shop towels and degreaser, etc, etc
I look people straight in the face and tell them $102 an hour..some people grumble,turn and walk away, some say no problem..the latter are the people I want to work for. That way I feel better about putting MY projects on the back burner when repairing someone else's stuff. Maybe that sounds selfish,I don't think so..

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3.5 hrs is just shop time. Thers also a travel fee, fuel surcharge and there's a $45.00 fee anytime I strike an arc or light a torch. Rarely do I need to make that fee bigger due to long use of the welder or torch. Most of the time I feel slightly guilty that it's a bit much for what I actually have to do. It more than covers my cost for materials, gasses, etc. I do need to raise my rates again though. It's been a few years. It came out to be just less than a new shuttle BUT they have it now and don't have to wait for the new one. That to them is worth it.. I'M GOOD WITH THAT.


I know a lot about a lot of things BUT I still have a lot to learn.
Life is what you make of it. So, why not make a working machine to make it easier.
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