I bought a dozer about a month ago with my father inlaw. He had no luck with it sO I decided to bring it to my house as I have more time than him to mess with it in the evenings.
I brought it home this weekend and started working on it. So far it's not good, I drained the oil and it looked like mud. Looks like this will be a rebuild thread, and since I haven't ever done rebuild a diesel engine this might be an adventure.
WOAH!! ---That sucks!-- Well --diesel is the same as gas--except for injection pumps and injectors, so it should be easy to work on.-- I assume its metric bolts and Komatsu parts should be common so that's in your favor ----- unlike the motor on the chipper I did have that was a VM Motori which was Italian and NO parts what so ever!
"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
I did a compression test on the dozer about 3 weeks ago. It was not good, It had 200, 240, 70, 60. I posted this on FB and was suggested to put a little oil in the cylinder and retest the compression. I finally did that tonight and the compression didn't change.
I guess the next step is to pull the engine and tear it down. I think I'll finish the mower before I jump on that. Here are some pics of it.
Bringing it home
The hour meter shows 1635 hours. Here are the sprockets. I'm not a track expert, sprockets look sharp to me. Got to get it runniing before I worry about that. Track tensioners are also pretty tight.
Sounds like engine rebuild will be needed. Former owner didn't take care of the machine??? Sprockets do look way too sharp----when you get the engine fixed and everything else works good-----then you can do track work but maybe use it a little first. It looks like a nice dozer overall and a handy size to move around.
"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
Jim the dry thinwall chrome liners like in Kubotas and my Isuzu compact diesels are a PITA..the heavywall liners are quite easy to do with the proper tool..OTC and others make the liner pullers they go about 800 for the kit thats pulls them out.You might be able to fab one(yes we are machine builders here) it could be done with some 1"all thread or (better)-acme threaded grade 8 rod and some heavy pattern nuts..I tried to fab one for the thinwall liners but it didnt work,they were clinging to the block like no ones business,very tough to move,I finally had to torch them out with a gas welding torch,heating the metal and peeling it in a strip,off the block wall then curling it in on itself and pulling out. The new ones went in easy once shrunk with dry ice, a block of hickory and a deadblow hammer. I think the critical thing to watch is deck protrusion of the new liner once inserted into the block and lubing of any o-rings that fit on the liner to seal coolant.The dryfit liners have no o-rings,they only seal combustion,the coolant never touches the dryfit liners.
I think the ones in my Detroit 3-71 were dry type. ---I just got under the tractor and knocked them out with a square iron bar,---might have gotten lucky on that one! lol!
"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
I did a job for a buddy years ago. it was a box \truck think it was a Volvo engine if I remember right. there were o-rings on the cylinders. I fabricated a jig with all thread to both pull the old cylinders and press in the new ones. Only had to redo one cylinder. felt lucky.
I know a lot about a lot of things BUT I still have a lot to learn. Life is what you make of it. So, why not make a working machine to make it easier.
Sonny the Detroit engines are a beast all in themselves but are wet liners from the ports up. The thinwall liners Im speaking of are thin chrome plated wear liners,about 1/8" thick that press fit inside the block cylinder bores of small diesel engines..think a standard block,iron bore but a thin liner-(like a smooth tin can)-that presses into that takes the wear. A lot of people cant figure them out because for the most part they are a PITA to pull out. There are tools to do it,but most ive seen done just get torch heated and peeled out..you have to shrink the new liner with dry ice to get 'em installed.They have an interference fit,usually with a lip at the top that fits a recess in the top of the bore to seat them.Nothing at the bottom. Jim the Volvo job you describe is standard cylinder liners you pull out.To get us back on subject I believe Gator's Komatsu is regular thick liners.
I have done most liner replacements all 71gmc are dry liners till you get to the 92 engines, the c24 I built a puller to get them out and push them back dry. the thing to look for on wet liners is the O rings some engines have top and bottom were others go in any grove.
Hey Tom I got the 71s confused with the 92s. They drop back in pretty easy if everything is clean but lube the o-rings with Crisco or whatever shortening you have.Works like a champ
A wise man uses plenty of safety blocks under equipment working on it..I sure do..Im not trying to be critical of your operation but I wouldnt trust that lift except maybe with a small car
Well I dropped the oil pan tonight and it's not pretty. The cylinder liner is rusted heavily on a couple cylinders and in one spot the cam shaft is heavily rusted. I think it probably has a blown head gasket, and was left sitting with water in the oil for a long time. I am not a diesel mechanic by any means. It looks to me like I definitely will have to pull the engine. Hopefully I can find a new cam shaft and lifters. I may take the engine out and then take it to someone who knows what they are doing and let them rebuild it.
I didn't do it tonight but tomorrow I will spray down the inside with WD40 or something so that it won't rust more while is is sitting there open.
sometimes a dose of kerosene and Marvel Mystery Oil and/or ATF fluid and let it roll around a bit with the starter will flush out a LOT of crap..but it looks as tho yes you had some water in that engine for some time..I'd be leery of the trans/cross shaft compartment just the same, and finals as well. Finals are usually 80w90 but you can't tell what water you might have in there too..an old Cat mechanic told me once-"fix it right,fix it once" (Ontario Bob-RIP)
I sprayed it down with wd-40 tonight, didn't feel like getting into it too much tonight.
The way the exhaust mounts it looks like it might have filled with rain water. The guy we got it from said it was running when parked, and it sat for awhile. Either way it looks like it was definitely filled with water. Hopefully not from the bottom of a lake....
I plan on changing all the fluids before it gets fixed.
I need to verify the engine model number before I order parts.
I would say water---not anti-freeze from the looks of it. --- either rain or lake water. Anti-freeze usually looks different when it goes into the oil,--like real nasty---this looks too clean for that-- gotta be just water. Main thing to check next would be transmission to see if it too has water in it. --- I would suspect it was just rain got in the exhaust,---easy for that to happen even with a cover on the muffler/pipe.
"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
with the pan off can you get the engine to turn over at all? or is it locked up tight? you'd be amazed just how durable these engines can be,even with a little water corrosion inside.Clean the pan and oil pump,reasssemble and oil it up with some of the lightest oil you can find and turn it over..if you cana get it to run then OK take it easy with it and let it run awhile..then drain the oil and repeat..it might just flush out what ails it..that cam lobe thats a bit corroded just might flake off and clean up as well..I guess it depends on what you want this to be..if its a linered engine it just might be a weekend rebuild,not too hard to do, you have the shop..not like me that has to schedule things around the weather.
looked like one of the cam lobes had some rust on it,thats the only thing that might be harmed by turning it over as I can see but you never know till you pull it apart..Ive got a Fiat diesel here to do the same with..runs fine but down on HP from normal 115hp, now its down to about 65hp..she's done her time at 11,000hrs
Got to work on the dozer a little tonight. Drained the radiator and pulled the front shroud. Little bugger is heavy.
On the back of the engine the hydraulic pump is direct mounted to it and passes the drive shaft through to a output drive shaft going into the transmission. The transmission is supported by the engine so I am going to pull it with the engine then try to take it apart once I have it on the floor or a stand.
I have been looking for rebuild kits and a cam shaft, I have found the rebuild kit but the cam shaft may hurt the pocketbook...
cams can sometimes be costly ----- problem is that IF you dont replace it in this case being a diesel would result in disaster. Diesel motors are not very forgiving-----sadly.
"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
The engine mount bolts on this thing are extremely tight. The front ones were in the open. I was able to put a 4' cheater on then with a socket and break them loose. It was still tight even with the cheater. The rear bolts are up under the console. I have ordered some crow foot wrenches hoping I can get those on there. If I can't get them loose I will have to remove the cab...Not giving up yet on the bolt though.
I have to use an open end crow foot wrench on one of my New-Holland 781 lines under the body of the loader ---nuttin else would go in there. Crow foots are nice when you have little space to work in. I had heard that some of the machines from Japan and other countries over there have some tight bolts in them -----good thing in one way but a pita for us guys when repairs are needed.
"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
never ceases to amaze me what a bit of torch heat and some PB Blaster will do for stuck or seized nuts and bolts..heat it up and spray it down the day before,let the PB work its way in..the PB is lot cheaper than 'Kroil',the next best thing..I've been using copper flake anti-seize on everything with threads now..it sure helps
I have put PB blaster on it, the problem with that is that the bolt is about 5" long. There are two sets of rubber isolators between the bolt head and location of the threads. The bolt threads from the two front bolts look like they have loc tite on them. Most of the time Loctite breaks down with torch heat. Problem is that as I have taken it apart hydraulic fluid and deisel have dripped everywhere. I caught most of it but it is still all over the place. I think I could heat it without catching the machine on fire but I don't want to risk it. Not worth it to burn my whole shop down over these two bolts.
I have tried some crazy things over the last week on it. I ordered a crow foot wrench, I put it on and was able to get a 1/2" drive ratchet on it. I still didn't have room for a good cheater so I took a porta power and braced on the car lift leg and pushed on the wrench handle. It pushed till the wrench couldn't move more. I reset it and the crow foot opened and popped off..
I took off some hydraulic lines and was able to get a box wrench on the bolt head. I put a shackle on the wrench and pulled it with a come a long. I pulled till it bent the wrench. The wrench bent until it got blocked and I gave up on it.
I have removed all the bolts from the console and have it ready to pull. I think I'm going to go ahead and change all the hydraulic hoses, it will be easier with the console is gone. The Roll cage is pulled back and I have clearance to the remove the console. I actually pulled it loose trying to pivot the cage back.
When I pull the console I will have direct access to the bolts
not trying to second guess your actions or thought process..sometimes you have to get into it and not worry about fluids on the floor..the worst is brake fluid, it burns easily and is hard to put out,Ive had a few under-vehicle brake fluid fires (by torching-) I think you could get a oxy torch on those bolts if you use a welding torch tip (not a cutting torch) Of course It's easy for me to say up here in MD and not being there on your shop floor in MS to see it in person..Man I can imagine the frustration with a couple bolts holding up the whole operation.
Ok Gator--I have to just say you have been diagnosed with a full-on case of the yellow iron disease..no nasal swab required, just greasy hands..you might have to quarantine for 15days or so
WOW! thats a lot of work! --- while you are that far---- might be a good time check every nut, bolt, and part down under there----- also the wiring if any that far down. Too bad that you have to go so far just to get engine out!
"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."