This is a oldie but a goodie. I'm going to get this started by showing the old site. Post the stuff your wife/husbarn looked at you sideways when you drug up...

this was and probably will be again the best topic for conversation.. How did we forget it in our build?

Got this today. It was cheap (I think). Now I have to figure out how to make it work with my TIG. I also have to get a water cooled torch.

Nice

Sweet rig! I'm sure you would already know but once you get used to the additional weight and bulk of a water cooled torch you will be spoiled for life. I would have loved to have used one welding cracks on jet engines but laying on your back and sometimes working through a mirror the gas cooled was the only way to go.
If you really want to mess with your mind try the mirror thing.......only a few of us welders could do it. I always said I had a backwards mind sometimes!

The mirror thingy would mess up everything! ---I never got very good at it! --- Only had to do it a few times!

Wow! I just realized this is a thread I started years ago! A lot of water has gone over the dam since, some good, some bad and some downright horrible. I have a few things that have followed me home between then and now, as soon as I get things done herein the next couple of days I will try to post some pics!

Cheers!

once you go water-cooled there's no goin back Gator..I started with an air-cooled TIG torch,man I wont even try to use one of those anymore..you can get deals on a good Weldcraft WP18 water cooled torch on eBay..I bought one there as a spare..the torch hose covers are expensive here at the LWS, eBay has them cheap too..its the kinda thing you just buy once..mine has lasted me almost 30yrs. The Miller radiator coolers seem to be good units,the pumps are still rebuildable..it should have a screen on the inlet side,under a cap..it might be missing,too...important piece to have on it.-be sure to diassemble it and clean the pump out,a lot of 'em get gunked up and have low flow..I have a pair of Bernard coolers,one on a Syncrowave and the other in storage for a Lincoln TIG. Be careful to use the right antifreeze in the torch and cooler,a lot of guys use automotive glycol A/F but it will clog up the orifices in the torch unless you run it real thin with water.I use the Miller coolant.FWIW best of luck.

I joined a FB group for the welder I have. I posted about how to hook it up with the welder. One of the guys suggested making another tank for the cooler. The lid doesn't really seal. I think I'm going to make a small replacement tank for it.

I did plug it in and hit the switch for a blip. The pump spun but made a not great noise. I didn't rund it but about a 1/4 second. I'll probally clean the tank and see if it will pump before I decide to go too far with it. I'll try to rebuild it if it is messed up. I have a lot going on other than building stuff at the moment. I hope to get to it in the near future.

I hear you brother... I have WAY too many irons inn the fire right now myself...

got a new toy-Club Car "Turf1" industrial golf car, Kawasaki gas powered with aluminum frame and manual dump box..not in too bad shape,just been sitting for a while(like 5years-whew!) so the gas is bad, gotta go thru it and do a PM and fix some electrical problems,microswitches on the transmission selector..may also need a new carb if I can't clean this one out...I think thats why they ditched it..got it for free..best deal yet, but I dont have it running yet..time,beer and pretzels will tell..it all helps with the diagnostics.
As I get older I can appreciate a good golf cart to get around,box on the back is good for hauling tools too..great for those long country lanes out to the mailbox,altho the exercise will do me good,just not in the rain..

gator, the inline filter might be inside the housing on the Miller cooler,a brass cap fitting on the inlet side of the pump,right on the pump body.It might be that someone took the small screen part out before you got it to make it work and its now clogged up after a long time running without it.Take the blue housing off and check back with us..the Bernard coolers have a replaceable pump,it comes off the motor drive,its like a recirculator pump..easy to rebuild.these TIG coolers are expensive,they go about $750 cheapest Ive seen new

Good find on the golf cart. I paid $100 for the tig cooler.

Couldnt pass this mini-monster up.
2 cylinder Hatz diesel engine with hydraulic pump, 3 hydro motors, articulated steering, hydrostatic drive, 2 lift cylinders, all associated control valving, and very stout frame and axles.
Lots of good parts here and it all works.
Hopefully the photos below will show up or the links to the photos will work.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XW_PkQE48uJroQsT_BowcLR1QoO91FiIYw/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Gl71uaRMZwpxWR3Kc28YeG5lE2sl3EFuuA/view?usp=drivesdk

Probably wouldn't take much to convert that to a loader, 4x4 tractor, etc. looks good!

this is one that I got a few years back to take backhoe off of and put it back on my 420-u John Deere tractor loader. The hoe was originally on the 420 when it was new in 56. At some point in time the hoe got taken off and sold to a guy that put it on the remains of the Vermeer unit.

Nice. It seems like these trenchers are built super tuff. I'm amazed that you found your old backhoe.

For mine, I was thinking about something like a mini 1 person bobcat toolcat type machine.
Loader/grapple bucket in front and a dump bed in back. Good for cutting trees, moving wood, snowplow, etc.
Any other ideas? Maybe a 3 point hitch is better than a dump bed?

I will work on how to post up photos so they show up in the body of the post like yours did.

We use Flickr It's easier and free..... Sonny I see you got the cut off on the HTML figured out to get rid of the extra junk text that showed up before.

I bought a case trencher to make my skid steer back hoe out of. I've got plans to make a dozer attachment out of it also. I scrapped the body but kept the axles thansfer case and the motor.

I've also got the stuff to make a trencher attachment out of.

Once I found the right point in the string, it was easy to do. I did get a couple books that I have been looking at. Getting more of an idea of whats going on, got a long ways to go yet!
These old trenchers have ton's of parts on them. Hyd. motors, valves, etc. Mine has most everything except the blade, digging boom, and the original hoe. The current hoe is the one that came off my 420 tractor. I tracked down the serial # from the original village that bought it new in 1956. The serial # on the hoe matches the invoice that they had a copy of. Kinda weird but that's the way stuff goes. I was told that the hoe was taken off so they could put a big platform on the back and stack weight on it for loader traction. The hoe wasn't heavy enough I guess. I never push the tractor that hard, mostly use it on dry ground. I use the skidloader for the hard stuff.

Sorry for the long post!

Test for actual photo inline with image
[img][/img]

Alright, looks like I got the photo issue sorted out.
Hope you all can see the actual photo inline with the text now and not just a link to the photo.
So, my new trencher is 2 cylinder Hatz diesel 30 HP with two hydraulic pumps.
Trying to buy a property soon with trees and I'm thinking a tree machine would be a good conversion for this.
Grapple on front and bed in back for brush and maybe a winch. Trees are kinda small so this should be big enough (12 to 16 inches in diameter for most of them)
This has 3 hydraulic motors (boring, trencher, and shaker). Do hydraulic motors normally have any speed or other ratings stamped on them to indicate what there capabilities are? I would also like to use this machine as the power setup for my future hydraulic sawmill. Hoping one of the motors would work as a bandsaw motor as I won't need all the motors on this in its new configuration.
Put an offer in on a new property so I hope to be moving soon to a spot in central Virginia.

the hydraulic motors generally arent marked with anything other than a model number,and MAYBE the manufacturer in the casting somewhere.You have to take the model number and go on the 'net and search for the data page from the spec sheets and go from there..you can measure the width of the gears and diameter if its a pump,but that would require disassembly-kinda counterproductive tho.Best approach on this one you have pictured is to start with the manufacturers data sheet on the machine,or service manual might spec it out. From what Ive learned in building machines,build in as much weight as you can,it adds traction to the wheels for pushing and pulling..this machine was never designed for cross country duty gathering trees and wood but it'l probably work-you already have the tires for it..but for my money,take the vib plow off and sell it-recoup some of that money for materials to mod the machine for your new use.The foundation is there. FWIW

Most equip is rated at 80% of actual. Motor speed will be determined by pump pressure/capacity more than any thing else along with flow restriction from the plumbing. Motor speed ratings are determined more by how much fluid can realistically pass through the device more than mechanical construction BUT that also takes play. I. E. bearings or bushings Etc.\

Pic came out good

Yes sir, appreciate your thoughts!
Going with your plan to get rid of the vibratory plow and use that area for the grapple bucket.
Thinking bed in the back for the weight as you suggested and load it up with tree cut offs.
Used to live and work in Rockville, MD so its nice to hear from a fellow east coaster.
Keep moving further away from DC as I get older.

If you can get a speed tac. on the end of the shaft, that would give an idea of what speed they run. I took a couple off and hooked 2 hoses up and ran them just to test for speed. Not real accurate, but you get an idea of possible starting point. On you machine, I would imagine the motors are quite hefty. On a side note, do you plan on removing any stumps? the vibe plow can serve to cut roots up close making them easier to get out.
The unit looks well made, so it should stand up to heavy use. I probably wont run fast so you may have to see or test that part out before you take it apart, then if speed needs to be increased, deal with that first, then build up from there.

I spot a forward control jeep truck!

Picked this up today 50-50 with my father in law hopefully we can get it running fairly cheaply, was supossed to be running when parked two years ago. Won't start now.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2iGT8uP][/url]

Start on filters and work from there. IF it has bio in it you could have a real problem! ---- it gets nasty in short period of time -----gotta clean everything out and start over. I wonder if the injection pump is stuck? ----If not---then you got it whipped! Did you try starting fluid in it? ---usually don't take much.
I was never around Komatsu so not much help! Lebs, (932), Cat (955) and of course ole Moose, IH (250-c) is about my limit.

I was posting from my phone and it wouldn't post correctly. Haven't had time to fix, thanks Jim for helping me out

I think thats a BIT much weight-wise for that pickup truck..especially with bumper pull trailer..around here the DOT would have you for lunch..I try to evade them as much as possible,they're out of control

Just found this--- I didn't think they were very heavy!

The Komatsu D20 and D21 small dozer line is the only light substantial dozer currently manufactured as new by a major equipment company. The weight on these dozers ranges 8,000-9,000 # depending on options. They can be hauled on a 10,000 GVW trailer behind a pickup with a class 4 or 5 hitch.

The City police here have there own mobile weight control team. I see trucks with bobcats & stuff pulled over ALL the time. I'm almost always over. one of these days they'll get me.

I use my 74 General tri-axle (21,000 gvw) with a 1" drawbar pin and safety chains, no plates---farm wagon status for now. Get pulled over every now and then,---When they come walking past the drawbar pin setup, they get real hateful to me. The last dumazzed Bloomington city cop bout shit when I started to unhook the trailer in the middle of the street and told him that he better guard my trailer while I drove 10 miles back home to get a tractor to complete my trip! ---He bout freaked out when I told him that and finally grumbled something as he walked away! I hate having to do that, BUT the look on his face was priceless when he saw that big ole shiny pin with safety pin in the bottom of it!
When I first got out,--I held my hands out for him to cuff me----that got him again! LOL!

That's a 3/4 ton truck. It is a 6.4 gasser but has the same suspension and brakes as the diesel. The dozer weighs 88oo lbs or so. The trailer is good for that weight, and the hitch on the truck is rated for 13K. It would be better with sway bars, but it's not overloaded.

I pull a 10,000# (empty) 36' Travel trailer camper around with it and it will pull however fast you want to pay the gas penalty for. About 65-70 is as fast as I try to go with the camper. I stayed about 55 with this as I was on side roads.

Gator!!---You are fine with hauling it that way! ---Looks good in the pic. ---What sets people off is when they see tracks,---they think OVERLOAD! LOL!! --- most people don't understand that tracks come in small packages too!
The more I look at that little guy,--the more I love it!
I found a lot of info on the history of Komatsu and they been around forever. Also looks like the 575 holds the record for the biggest production dozer to date. It comes in at 330,000 pounds LOL!!

On yours,---according to research,---the D-20 is direct drive and the D-21 is the powershift version.
When I drove for Meltons, on one road job they had a D-21 with a 6-way blade on it to do the small field entrances because a grader wouldn't fit and would make a mess. NICE machine!