So I've had this laying around for some time. Had it on the back of the 420 crawler...not used it in years I figured it be bit more handy on the 4000. Thinking of tieing it into the loader frame I dont want it pulling from the top link....that is a sin punishable by death
It's a bradco 9hd very heavy little hoe. Weighs in about 2000 lbs...l believe the modern model is the 609. Right now very crudely 3 point attached for attachment fesabilily. Not worried if rearend will handle it it the same as all other ford industrial tractor like the 4500
The tractor will handle it with no problem! My 310 had a hoe on it and it was the model 33, ---same as the ones on my 580 ck tractors. I also have a spare model 35 hoe that came off of a 580 -B tractor and its a lot different. 2 main cylinders and a boom lock on it. I used an old Shawnee Scout hoe rigged to the homemade 3-pt. on a Farmall SMD that I had,--worked good on it with no front weights!
"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
This thing has been made to fit 10,574 things in its life.if you look in the bottom you will see something that looks like something like a hitch. Believe that was made to set on a drawbar or hammer strap hitch and the top holes are the lift links of the 3 point pinned. I dont the lower links taking pull but I don't want any on the top link. Like to tie into loader frame cleanly and without interrupt the freedom of movement in the the 3 point. Want it to be quickly detachable
My old scout raised with the 3-pt PLUS its own single cylinder, --It had been on a Ford tractor . The cylinder was mounted in a frame that bolted directly to the rear end of the tractor and had 2 pull arms running up to the side of the tractor somewhere,--- weird setup but I guess it worked. The hoe sat on the ground when digging, BUT on my tractor the top link held the pull of the hoe. Broke the end off a cat. 2 top link a couple times but they werent factory welded very good which required me to re-weld them and they never broke after that. To hook anywhere else on top that would be "quick un-hook" is a head scratcher! When I first used it on the old DC case, I made long arms to run from the case lift arms, (part of the early eagle hitch) and bolted the sub cylinder to the tractor with 2 HEAVY bars clamped to the axle. This was sorta like it would have been on the Ford it came off of. I never took it off of the case but the last time I did I welded true 3-pt tabs under the main hoe cross frame and 2 more tabs to the top for the top link to hook into. It was true 3-pt specs for the SMD, easy on,--easy off. I never had any pix. of the setup and its kinda hard to x'plain how it was made.
"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
Been doing some thinking on your post....head hurts some...due to possible hangover. Is weld or bolt a bracket or plat to where the loader clamps to the axle. Put hole in for a pin just use a another top link making a 4 point?
Brackets are welded need pins....and one bolt. These will clamp to the axle using two loader bolts then the shim and another strap on the bottom may weld that to the loader tube may not...I dont know. It's all 1/2 plate and angle...its what I had. 5/8 bolts will be securing it
Got cat 2 mounts glued with 7018. Got it mounted up seams ridged enough. I've got the hoe running off tractor hydraulics by bungee cord the remote open
I would of cut off rest the mounts but run short of acetylene. I need to revamp the seating arrangement to allow my legs to pass through between the seat and control but that may be a spring time job. I need to dig a water line from house to shop but not sure how to exit the house with it
Go below the frost line as deep as you can! Seal where you go thru the wall really good. Our pipe here was not sealed too good, so I had to knock it out and do a bigger area around the pipe , but it did stop outside water from coming in. Our pipe from well to house is about 4 1/2'. 3 outside hydrants are a little over 4' but so far have never froze.
"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
Problem is the house basment is only 3 foot in the ground and in Minnesota 6 for is the minimum you want to go....heat tape and some sort of insulated line?
Line inside a bigger pipe with heat tape and insulation? --keeping it dry would be a problem. possibly go thru the wall then down to your 6' needed depth and really seal the drop line some way so it dont freeze. Heat tape on the short drop might do for that!
"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
Glad its working! --- You could always make a longer stick IF really needed but longer means flimsy so if the short guy works I would stay with it for now. Ya summer got away from us here too, ---- got shit to do yet and now working out in the cold wet outdoors aint no fun! lol!
"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
