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#975 01/10/2020 04:10 PM
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This is what I need to get running to help around the place. My New Hollands are a bit big for a lot of lighter work, plus this one don't have a top on it. Makes it easier for me to crawl on it. Don't plan on lifting anything high or heavy. just light pushing around and carrying stuff down low.
Right now I need the loader cylinder kits to redo the lift and bucket cylinders. I am having trouble with Case, as they kinda dis-own this model. the only thing they show is the 1530-B model, its a different animal.
Ideas and info are needed! Thanks!

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"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
sonny #979 01/11/2020 10:01 AM
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It might be time to go to a hydraulic supply place and see if they can mix and match individual seals?

sonny #984 01/11/2020 01:31 PM
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There might be 2 places that would be possibilities and IF I recover from this dang surgery enough that I can travel I will check them out. Might have to take one cylinder apart and take it with me so they can see what's in them. All 4 take the same kit.
One guy says it's not really Case!--He says it was made by uniloader company in Iowa and Case bought them out! --THAT'S why Case don't claim this one!


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sonny #989 01/12/2020 12:11 AM
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I rebuilt the rams on my bucket truck all from tearing them down Taking measurements and ordering what I needed on line. I couldn't find any info on my boom so I didn't have any other options. That boom extension cylinder has a 10' stroke. that was a PAIN..but Hydraulics & Pneumatics is what I did for most of my time in the Navy. of course those cylinders, accumulators and pumps were a lot bigger than our stuff, most of your seals are probably quad rings with nylon backing rings and Maybe some fiber sleeves of some sort to aid in reducing wear on the seals. I would only expect to see a cup type seal on a single acting cylinder.


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Life is what you make of it. So, why not make a working machine to make it easier.
sonny #991 01/12/2020 12:20 PM
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All of these cylinders are double acting. ---power in both directions. When I did my Case 580ck backhoe cylinders, they had a lot of plastic rings in them. From what I see in the parts book, this one has the same set-up.
Case had a very bad habit of making stuff .010 undersized so standard stuff don't fit!


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sonny #993 01/12/2020 01:41 PM
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That was what I was dealing with on the bucket truck cylinder. I'll see if can find the site I ordered my stuff from. They have all kinds of odd sized stuff.


I know a lot about a lot of things BUT I still have a lot to learn.
Life is what you make of it. So, why not make a working machine to make it easier.
sonny #995 01/16/2020 07:10 PM
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Baum Hydraulics Omaha,Nebraska..www.baumhydraulics.com 1-800-228-9222 if they don't have it you ain't gettin it

sonny #996 01/17/2020 05:17 PM
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Hmmm that sounds about right


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Life is what you make of it. So, why not make a working machine to make it easier.
sonny #997 01/18/2020 11:11 AM
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Will have to call them as I am sure Case won't get me any parts for this one.


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sonny #998 01/18/2020 05:15 PM
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you may have to resort to sizing up the orings,seals and wipers by size alone. If its a simple double acting cylinder like I think it is,Baum should be able to help you.Good people there that know hydraulics.Ask 'em to send you a copy of the 1in thick 'Redbook'-its their catalog of hydraulics parts and everything else they have..Otherwise you might have to replace the cyls with something else close to what was original..maybe cut end mountings off the old cyls and reweld onto new cylinders from surplus center for example. Hope this doesnt snowball on ya Sonny.

Another one is Messick's.com,they have some parts listings for the 1530,with hydraulic parts listed.Looks like a cylinder kit for the lift cylinders is 99.00ea,but check for content and compatibility.

sonny #999 01/19/2020 01:06 PM
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I am still trying to figure what the differences is between 1530 and 1530-B. ---I get conflicting stories! --I did hope cylinders were the same. -- Later Case went to 2.5 cylinders with smaller rod but I can't find the model they changed that on.
I did consider the new cylinder idea, but cost would probably not be in my budget. Still looking !


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sonny #1001 01/20/2020 08:59 AM
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looks like this could be a good wintertime shop job. -from what I could find the Case 1530 is like from 1971-1976 era. They had a lot of commonality on the hydraulic cylinders, many of the base mounts look the same.Is it just the gland seals that are bad sonny? are the rods pitted as well? if its both then maybe a total cylinder replacement might be the easier way to go,along with that you get new cylinder durability and reliability for quite some time. I do understand that everyone has a budget too. I had used cylinders on my mini articulated loader when I first built it,they only lasted a year or so then blew the gland seals..replaced with Surplus Center cylinders and its been good since. Check out the Messicks link above for the lift cyl kits, you might find what u need there

-I have noticed the price of S/C cylinders has risen in the past year or so, plus now UPS and Fedex has the $25 extra charge for heavy packages,you know ANY cylinder you order will have that applied...something to think about for sure next time u order FWIW.

Case 1530 tilt cylinder rebuild kit $27.99,free shipping. Case P/N G105502 1-1/2"rod,3"bore 'tractorpartsasap' on ebay,
item number 132626345781..put that # into the search block on top and it'l pull it up

sonny #1828 12/08/2020 08:10 PM
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Well---- had everything working good-----NOW the engine blew up last night! --- From what I can tell and the way it sounded when it blew is the righthand head gasket went. Had this problem on the v-465-d in my old original new-holland 775 loader. it liked head gaskets too.
Problem with this vh4 is the head bolts all break off in them when you try getting them out.
I am not good at drilling out broken bolts either,---cant start drill centered good enough to drill them out. Have another vh4 with most of the head bolts broke off trying to get the head off.
Any ideas before I start breaking stuff???? Really need to get this thing running again!


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sonny #1831 12/09/2020 06:46 AM
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damn Sonny I thought you had that machine all wrapped up and ready for winter

sonny #1834 12/09/2020 11:47 AM
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Me too! ---now its back to relying on the ole New-Holland 781 for winter, which is o.k. cept the Deutz diesel is hard to start when its really cold. --- too much stiff stuff for the little starter to spin over fast enough to go. I can start it o.k. by using a salamander stuck under the back of it for a half hour in the shed. ---not a fast easy job but it works so IF it comes down to it I still have a way out! lol!
Kinda got used to the little guy and do like it.---even starting to get the hang of hand controls! lol! For as small as it is you can do serious work with it. also shorter wheelbase dont dig up the ground as bad as the NH does, they are a long wheelbase and root like a hog when you turn but will lift amazing heavy loads!
Life goes on!!! LOL!!!!


"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
sonny #1836 12/09/2020 07:37 PM
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o.k. finally got the last bolt out without breaking it off ---- slid head off---gasket perfectly good, ----turned head over and------well----NOT so good --- split that sucker wide open!
Pic of the topside, white burn mark by plug , pic of bottom side showing the split. I can almost stick my pinkie thru the hole.
Found mouse beds the size of a half gallon jar down in the bottom of the air duct,--- looked like it been there for a long time.
Motor sounded like an exhaust leak when I first got it, so it must have been starting to break before I got the loader.
I blew everything out before I started running it but this area is where you cant blow air into.
Anyway, I took the righthand head off the old parts motor he gave me in the deal when I bought the loader and it has good heads, so that will work,---manifold is good BUT wont work on the loader motor---outlet is in the wrong place so guess I'll have to seal this old one up and put it back on and hope it dont leak. The intake side on left bank has the ear broke off. The broke off piece is still stuck on the block and I left it there for now.

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"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
sonny #1882 12/21/2020 02:45 PM
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Got a gasket set on order---Dec. 31 date,----oh well! --- now the new holland is actin goofy ---- kinda like something stickin in the injection pump or fuel not right---dont know. will try new filter I guess. could be transfer pump going out too! --- I hate diesel motors!!


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sonny #1883 12/21/2020 03:05 PM
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Sonny I think you've had enough excitement for the day, your ears are probably getting red and it's time for your afternoon nap..Maybe I can send my good friend from Clinton Indiana-nurse-over to tuck you in..she has a special way of taking temperatures tho. eek Seriously dont take too much on in one day,you can't think objectively when you try to process it all at once..that exhaust manifold with the ear broke off,leave it right where it is,loosen it a little,fix with a new gasket and put some washers over both halves and tighten it down. Maybe even some RTV silly-cone to boot.The cyl head sure needs replaced tho..it's been there for a while..JB Weld aint fixin that...at least it didnt come apart and ruin the piston or block.I use the copper anti seize on old head bolts like that..good stuff..there's someone breaking down a Wiscon V4 on eBay right now for parts...$200 for a cyl head.wow

sonny #1956 01/02/2021 03:26 PM
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Gasket set finally came the other day,---NOW we got hit with ice storm yesterday so no work on the motor today! --- Have trees down all over the yard,---- guess its a good thing I bought the big chipper!


"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
sonny #1957 01/02/2021 04:48 PM
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Is that chipper a 'chuck and duck' type drum chipper or a slow disc? the older drum chippers are getting harder to find..you could hear them a mile away winding up

sonny #1958 01/02/2021 07:01 PM
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'chuck and duck' ---Vermeer 1600, 16 inch knives in it. ---- Ya, they do make noise! LOL!


"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
sonny #2541 05/06/2021 06:51 PM
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After lookin at the valves and piston in the motor,----- I think while heads off I will do a valve job on it. Pistons are tight, so a touch-up might help a lot.
Also gonna take the other head off and replace both of them as a matched pair from the donor engine. also will try the good manifold off the donor and see if I can make it work, so wont have to mess with the old one.
The re-built lift cylinders were working like a champ----no leaks, so I did something right on them! lol!


"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
sonny #2633 06/10/2021 06:55 PM
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Went to take the other head off, and ------- ya you guessed it! Last damn bolt snapped off even with the block, so-----looks like now I gotta take the motor out IF I can get the u-joint to slide off the crankshaft!
No way to drill anything with the motor in the loader----no room at all!
Shoulda left that side alone, but wanted to grind the valves, so no choice. Also found one piston with a LOT of slop in it ---- dont know what that is all about! the rest are tight.


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sonny #2634 06/11/2021 08:02 AM
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yup you went and did it Sonny..just pull it out and bench it,set it up right and then put it back in.. it'l last you a while then,and you'll have confidence when you use it....
patch repair jobs just don't work for me,an old Cat mechanic taught me that

sonny #2637 06/12/2021 11:58 AM
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Ya, --- problem is when you start on one for a minor fix,----ends up being a TOTAL re-build! ----VERY costly on Wisconsin motors!


"A machine you build yourself is a vote for a different way of life. There are things you have to earn with your hands."
sonny #2648 06/24/2021 02:20 PM
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About have the motor ready to pull out. Hope the u-joint comes off the crankshaft without much trouble! lol!
This is kinda all the room you have to work in!
The counterweights have been removed so they are out of the way!
Still wish I had more time to put the Ford 172 diesel in it! 50 hp as opposed to the Quote-30 that the Wisconsin is SPOSED to have!


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sonny #2649 06/24/2021 08:53 PM
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those old Wiscons are definitely past their prime, but to try to engineer anything else in there might be a bigger project than you think. Easier to recon'd what you have unless it's terminal..Sure getting the newer engine in there might be easy but making all the little stuff work out is what takes the most time..I just did a Fiat diesel replacement in an enclosed generator set, pulled it out and installed a Deere 4045, easy to directly bolt up,but all the little stuff like air cleaner ducting, turbo/exhaust pipes and oil drain plumbing has taken forever to get the right parts to do it. And on a skid-steer it's even worse because of tight compartments.

sonny #2650 06/24/2021 09:12 PM
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Ya!, gonna try to butter up the old one cause I dont have time to re-fit a different one in there. Controls would be easy on the Ford motor ---only need throttle lever on it. start and stop is on the key, same as the Wisconsin but the 50 hp sure would make it stand up and go! LOL!


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sonny #2707 10/15/2021 06:46 PM
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finally got the motor out, AND the pistons turned out to be .030.---- the loose one dont have any broken rings but a lot of wear on 2 sides, looks like deep scratch marks like some grit was in the oil.
Sludge in the pan was about 3/4 inch deep and very slimy ---dont think the oil was ever changed since the last rebuild on the motor.
Ya he not in very good shape-----Rod shells look good and are tight.
one guy was talking about squirt nozzles on the rods,---all mine has is holes in the rods, one on each side of the rod and a third hole in the bottom cap.
I never messed that deep in Wisconsins before, so its kinda Greek to me as to whats s'posed to be in them.
Anyway a couple pix. of both sides of the piston and the hole it came out of, which is kinda wavy in the bore.



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sonny #2708 10/17/2021 08:00 AM
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.030 might be all you can go with that block bore,you might think about installing sleeves and keep your .030 pistons..any engine Ive seen at .060 usually has heating issues..then again,flex hone the bores lightly, clean up the pistons you have with some crocus cloth paper, solvent wash them and drop on a new set of rings, new oil pump..slam it back together and run the piss out of it

sonny #2721 10/17/2021 07:30 PM
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Biggest over bore I find is .040, so I was just wondering about getting a better piston or new one to replace the loose one and new rings on all 4 and go!--well after I do the valves while I have the motor out.
I dont run the loaders maxed out, so I think it would run me a long time.


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sonny #2724 10/18/2021 09:09 AM
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LA Sleeve makes a good sleeve for the Wisconsin, check out the talk over on Smokstak,there are a few good videos on youtube about sleeving wiscons as well

sonny #2725 10/18/2021 10:58 AM
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I have a thread about the motor over there too.


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