Here's what I have:

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com][Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com][Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

Back (arms up):
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

Right (bucket dump):
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

Forward (arms down):
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

Left (bucket curl):
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

If I wanted to swap which spool operates which function, I could flip the plate over (and swap the handle to the other side). And it doesn't matter which way your valve bank is facing, up forward back left right whatever, I have mine up on its side so I have room for my knee. I think some garden tractor have theirs under the floor pan and use longer rods to push pull, if you do it right that can make it even easier to setup because now you can change the linkage spacing since you aren't tied directly to the valve spindle and linkage spacings.

I think there is enough detail there that you can sort of work out the operating logic, what you are trying to do is get the pivots of the rod ends in line with the handle link and spool in each direction. The other thing to note is that the spools can (usually?) turn in their bores to make bolting them to the rod ends easier. You can see the "normal" handle-spool orientation on my 3rd spool.

I will also point out that sometimes there are surplus handle (or even cable remote) setups available that are pretty cheap. It is fun to work this stuff out and get it to work, but sometimes throwing money at the problem is a better solution...especially if it ends up being a smoother and more reliable setup.

Last edited by GLyford; 11/06/2020 07:10 AM.