why can't you do that work with a skidsteer? I had the same need Sonny,I have pneumatic tire forklifts but they get stuck easy on wet grass,so I needed a way to move items around when its wet from the front shop to the back storage area across grass and sometimes soggy wet grass and mud,as well as needed to use a bucket now and then for snow removal..a skidsteer was out because I need to get out of the machine sometimes with a load raised up to work on it..a used articulated mini loader was well over $25k when I could find one,most were worn out basket cases,i looked at 'em all,(Kubota,TCM,Avant)..so I chose to build one..what I learned Sonny is this..build it with 3/4T axles,4.11ratio or better.The Ranger axles arent up to it. I used IH Scout 2 axles,30spline Dana44s and cut them down to 4ft wide,a little too light for the machine in hindsight. if you can find them,put limited slip differentials in them,but not lockers.Open diffs will cut back on power delivered to the ground,lot of wheelspin and getting stuck with those..Full floater axles(3/4T or 1T) are the best to use,with the weights involved the bearings take a beating with the semifloaters when you break a shaft,and you will..build in as much weight in the ass of the machine as you can,fuel,hydraulic tanks,battery,etc all go to the back..hydraulic drive is OK if reduced enough,the 4.10/4.11 axle ratios allow for that..i used a #60 morse chain drive from one centrally mounted Char-Lynn 104-1028 series motor to a transfer case,this allowed me to tune the sprocket ratio between the motor and transfer case to allow the most speed and power.The one hyd motor has so much torque it ripped the transfer case clean off its mount bolts,so I came up with a girdle for it to expand the mounting points to spread the forces out onto the frame,it was a tough job very tight confines with hoses everywhere and steer cylinder mixed in as well to work around. If you go hydraulic drive use motors with case drains,this allows motor case pressure buildups to vent back to the tank instead of blowing up your motor(s) The drive control is a simple cylinder valve,no fancy stuff here,it holds the machine when you let off of it..takes some seat time to master but works OK when you learn how to run it. The low axle ratios and the reduction drive to the transfer case dampen the drive action,its not so jerky like a 1:1 drive where you feel everything.I have $3K into mine and that wasnt a total OCD build,I used a lot of parts I had around and built most all of the frame myself from 1"plate and 2x4 rectangular tubing. I used a 25hp Kohler direct coupled to a 2-section hyd gear pump,had to custom modify the engine/pump adapter but has been OK so far for 10yrs or running it. A couple photos for you

articulated joint
[Linked Image from kuhnbros.com]

Axle snappage
[Linked Image from kuhnbros.com]

The early axle shafts I cut and welded didnt hold up with the locking diff so I went with limited slip differentials..then I started TIG welding the axle shafts with Cronatron Eagle 100K PSI rod and beveing them first to get a full weld,you can see from the photo the first shafts I did had a learning curve LOL The Dana44s have held up OK housing wise just the shafts broke a lot..gotta have spares..also helps a LOT if you make a notebook with dimensions of everything in it for future rebuild/repair reference..very important..I cant remember what the shafts length were,I haveta go to the notebook..there is a bit of wiggle room in the shafts,the splines dont have to be bottomed totally in the diff to work,you can be even a 1/4" too short and it will still fit up into the axle and diff.Takes some figuring and dimensioning,looks easy but takes a concentrated effort to get it right. Maybe this gives you some insight Sonny as to what I went thru,maybe you are going simpler with what parts you have..That Ranger will get cut and used one way or the other from what Ive seen of your work LOL